Finally, another MTL RTA has come into my possession thanks to HealthCabin, and it’s the still-new Hellvape Dead Rabbit MTL 2 RTA! This review will be about a quite versatile tank. Although it doesn’t look very different from all other hybrid RTAs, it has something extra that I felt throughout the entire test. It covers all trends from the classic tight MTL to the slightly looser RDL, which makes it so fantastic! Most hybrid atomizers tend to have a characteristic flaw, which is a too-wide chimney or too-wide wicking channel. If these two characteristic blunders are present simultaneously in a hybrid tank, it won’t really be suitable for MTL, even if the airflow can be restricted to a minimum. In this case, Hellvape hasn’t overdone the sizing, so neither the chimney nor the wicking channel is too wide. The DR MTL 2 has just the right dimensions, which aren’t excessive for those who prefer MTL, and aren’t too restrictive for RDL style lovers. This is a perfectly balanced tank!
It’s available in six colors: the relatively subdued matte black, full matte black (where the DR logo is also colored), silver (or SS), and gunmetal. If that’s not striking enough, there’s also blue and gold for the bolder users. I received the SS version, which, contrary to the pictures, is not a shiny silver at all, but a plain metallic, almost minimalist SS. It promises to be a very exciting tank, so let’s dive right in!
Hellvape Dead Rabbit MTL 2 RTA experience report
Box Contents and Getting Acquainted with the Tank
The usual accessories come with this tank, yet it’s clear that Hellvape has noticeably pushed the boundaries of all forms of usability! First, there’s the chamber with the extended chimney and the 4ml glass, a shorter delrin drip tip, 5 AirPins, and finally the usual seals, spare screws, some cotton, a screwdriver, a pre-wound MTL Clapton, and of course, the user manual!
Let’s look at the AirPins immediately, as these are responsible for allowing us to move in any direction within the MTL to RDL spectrum. There are AirPins with internal diameters of 2, 1.8, 1.5, 1.2, 1.0, and 0.8mm, with the 1.2mm one being pre-installed in the tank. The 1.2mm is a rather mixed-feeling AirPin for me, as it’s usually too loose compared to tight, and too tight compared to loose. But we’ll see how it performs during use.
The box also contained a chamber with an extended chimney, for which they included the matching 4ml glass. Visually, I think the 4ml version looks better than the stock 2ml one. The 4ml will be useful because the recommended coil is an MTL Clapton, which consumes quite a bit. But the 4ml is good not only for this reason but also because we won’t have to refill as often.
There was also a 510 delrin drip tip in the box, whose mouthpiece and inner diameter are the same as the one on the tank by default, only its height and shape are different, and it’s matte, unlike the long one, which is slightly shinier and has a more curved edge. For me, the shorter one became the favorite because it curves inward, not outward, making it a more comfortable experience to use. And of course, there was another reason why the shorter one won, but I’ll get to that later.
The main parts of the tank do not differ from those of other tanks. Moving from top to bottom: 510 drip tip, threaded top cap, also threaded filling port, which will sit on the glass next to it, followed by the chamber with the chimney that will connect to the threaded filling port, enclosing the glass. And when these are assembled, the deck goes in last, which, unlike the others, is not threaded but has a bayonet lock. So, it doesn’t consist of many parts, which reflects that Hellvape once again focused on usability, which I’m very happy about, as the more parts something has, the more trouble it can cause.
The tank is detached from the deck by rotating it. This is why there are two small dot-shaped indentations on both sides of the tank and the deck, because when they align, the deck and tank can be separated. If you rotate the tank on the deck, you need to turn it to the right for the dots to align. If you remove it from the mod and rotate the deck instead of the tank, turning the deck to the right will align the two dots. Of course, it has liquid control, which manifests as pushing the two dots closer together, and suddenly it becomes visible that the juice feed is no longer in the opening, but the wall of the deck slides in. Since the external filling port is quite wide, but only three small holes inside supply the liquid to the cotton, there’s not much point in restricting it, but who knows what life will bring, so it’s definitely positive that this option exists. The deck is a bit tight, it doesn’t rotate very easily when removed, but if it’s not on the mod, it can be turned by hand because the engraved patterns prevent your hand from slipping on the edge of the deck.
The 22.5mm diameter build deck itself follows the Kayfun style quite closely, which means it can’t be bad at all! The recesses for the screw heads on the edges of the deck will help a lot in securing the wire, as they are seated, so the wire won’t slip out from under the screw because the wall of the deck will hold it from the other side. The liquid supply, as can be seen, comes from below through three small holes, so you shouldn’t overstuff it with cotton. Along the edges of the screws, about 1mm has been removed from the upper rim so that the legs can be neatly folded in without the risk of a short circuit. What else is visible on the build deck are two small curved indentations at the edges of the wicking channels, where placing our screwdriver or coiling tool will prevent it from moving, thus making coiling easier, but in return, the coil will have a fixed height of about 1.5mm.
Let’s Coil It!
My first attempt was on a 2mm mandrel with 6 wraps of Kanthal and Cotton Cloud’s cotton. I kept the pre-installed 1.2mm AirPin in place due to the 2mm mandrel size. Since the cotton receives liquid from below, and I wasn’t sure what to expect regarding dry hits, I tried the loosely structured Cotton Cloud’s cotton, just to understand the tank’s capabilities. The cotton should be cut at the widest part of the deck, at the bottom rim, and then it will be the correct length. I wasn’t disappointed! No leaks, no dry hits, just flavorful vapor!
A harmadik tekerésnél szintén 2.5-ös magméretre tekertem, csak ezúttal 5 menet MTL Clapton-t. A vatta továbbra is a BP Mods maradt, viszont itt ismét indokolt volt az AirPin cseréje az MTL Clapton miatt, ezért megkapta az 1.8-ast. A kissé tágabb AirPin jó választásnak bizonyult. Ennyi levegő minimum kell az MTL Clapton-nak, persze attól függ milyen vastag a huzal. Ez már több Watt-tot is igényelt, de ennek ellenére bármilyen hosszúságú slukkidőt is sikerült összehoznom, a huzal nem hevült túl, nem kísérte a slukk végét dry hit, pedig azért jóval kisebb az AirPin átmérője, mint a magméret, ezért kicsit tartottam tőle, de minden rendben ment és ez is hozta a vártat!
Abszolút nem egy bonyolult szerzemény a DR MTL 2! Végtelenül könnyű megépíteni, a sokoldalúságának köszönhetően pedig rengeteg lehetőség rejlik benne. Nézzük is meg élmény szempontjából mire jutottam.
Élménybeszámoló
Az anyaghasználat tükrözi a megszokott Hellvape minőséget. Nem egy nehéz súlyú tank, de azért érezni, hogy van benne anyag, viszont egy modot sem fog fejnehézzé tenni. A menetezések tökéletesek, az illesztések hibátlanok, a bajonettzár sem rossz, de… (mindjárt írom)! A menetes top cap alatti töltőnyílásokat egy vékony perem veszi körül aminek köszönhetően nem következik be az az idegesítő, szinte általánosnak mondható állapot amikor már egy jóideje használatban van a tank és kiül, vagy épp lecsurog a tartály oldalán a liquid ha rátekerjük a top cap-pet. Újratöltésnél teljesen tele lehet tölteni folyásmentesen, tehát mind a 2, illetve 4ml-es űrtartalmat is teljesen ki lehet használni anélkül, hogy észrevehető nyomás keletkezne. Szerencsére a töltőnyílások elég nagyok ezért bármekkora cseppentős flakonnal is rendelkezzünk, nem lesz bosszúság az újratöltés. Az AirPin-ek cseréje rém egyszerű, csak ki,- és becsavarjuk és mehetünk is tovább, bár azért lehettek volna egy picit hosszabbak, de ez már kukacoskodás lenne részemről. Alapvetően egyszerű felépítéssel rendelkezik, így nagyon már nem is tudok mit írni, viszont elérkeztünk ahhoz a ponthoz ahol is próbálok belekötni a termékbe, mert nem létezik olyan, hogy valami 100%-ig tökéletes legyen! Ahogy írtam is fentebb, a bajonettzár azért enyhén szorul picit, ami miatt én csak a modról leszedve kézzel tudtam kettészedni, de néha azért elforgott máshol is annyira megszorult, viszont ezt el lehet kerülni azzal, ha be liquid-ezzük a build deck külső tömítőgyűrűit. Tehát ez egy kiküszöbölhető probléma, ami nem is biztos, hogy sokáig fenn fog állni, mivel minél többet használjuk a DR MTL 2-t idővel bekopnak a jelen esetben még enyhén szoruló tömítések, így ennek úgy gondolom időt kell adni, de az első néhány alkalommal még szinte biztos, hogy ragaszkodni fog a deck a tartályhoz, szóval meg kell majd küzdeni vele. Továbbá volt még egy dolog ami zavart, az pedig a gyárilag rajta lévő hosszú drip tip instabilitása. Amint hozzáértem már billegett is, amiből pedig következik, hogy sajnos egy óvatlan pillanatban akár el is hagyhatjuk. Összességében csak a hosszú drip tip az ami kilóg a sorból, ugyanis minden más alkatrész annyira passzentos, hogy inkább olyan legyen mintsem magától szétessen. Viszont azt azért picit szokni kell, hogy a bajonettzár meg mondhatni túlzásba viszi a működését. De ezeken felül abszolút nem volt gondom a tankkal és egyébként sem tekergetjük olyan gyakran a deck-et, viszont mivel ilyen szorulásos fajta így érdemes lehet üvegnél megfogni ha újratöltjük a tartályt, mert mikor visszatekerjük a top cap-pet csak jobban rászorítjuk a deck-et a tartályra.
Az 5db csere AirPin-nek köszönhetően MTL-en belül szinte bármelyik irányzatnak megfelelőt tudunk tekerni ugyanis 100%, hogy találunk a dobozban hozzá passzoló AirPin-t. Ott vannak a 2 és 1.8mm-es belső átmérővel rendelkezők, amelyeknek egyike MTL Clapton-hoz tökéletes választás lehet. Aztán még itt van az 1.5, illetve a gyárilag a tankban lévő 1.2mm-es AirPin, amik igazából annyira univerzálisak, hogy bármihez jók lehetnek, akár 2-es magról, vagy 2.5-ösről legyen szó, vagy épp szálhuzalról illetve MTL Clapton-ról. Bár a 2-es maghoz inkább az 1.2-est ajánlanám, a 2.5-ös maghoz pedig az 1.5-öst, de mivel annyira azért nem szűk a tank levegőrendszere, hogy valóban homlokhorpasztós élményt érjünk el az 1.2-essel, ezért akár 2.5-ös magmérethez is jó lehet, csak maximum 4 menethez, hogy azért a széleit is érje a huzat, mert ugyebár arra mindig kell figyelni! A legszűkebbek az 1 és 0.8mm-es AirPin-ek amik a 2-es maghoz nagyon is passzolnak. Az utóbbi kettőnek azért már van bőven légellenállása ahhoz, hogy aki a klasszikus MTL híve, annak az igényeit is kielégítse. Ami pedig a tekerést illeti, ennél egyszerűbb, de nagyszerűbb deck nem sok van. Csak belefektetjük a csavarhúzót vagy épp tekerősegédet abba a két kis félkör alakú bemarásba és már be is pozícionálta nekünk a tekerést, ami annyit tesz, hogy nagyjából 1.5mm-re lesz a levegőző felett. Bár ez picit magasnak tűnhet, de ennek ellenére alig van TH-ja, és az a pici is csak MTL Clapton-nal tekerve hajlandó előbújni. A vattázása is pont annyira egyszerű, mint megtekerni. Miután befűztük a vattát a tekercsbe csak levágjuk a deck legszélesebb pontjával egyvonalban, ami a deck alsó pereme, és már tehetjük is be a helyére, persze azért borzoljuk meg a végeit, hogy megfelelő legyen a lészállítás. Nem mondanám háklisnak, huzal ügyben semmiképp, viszont vattázásnál azért túl tömör vattát ne használjunk, mert ha eltömíti a három kis lyukat akkor nem fog felmenni a liquid, vagy nagyon sok idő fog telni, ezért körültekintően válasszunk vattát. Emellett pedig nem elhanyagolható, hogy mindenképp a deck alsó peremének szélénél vágjuk le a vattát, mert az pont akkora méret, hogy épp leér az etetőnyílás aljához, de nem tömíti el a lyukakat.
The second time, I already increased the core size, here I wrapped 5 wraps of Kanthal on a 2.5mm core, and out of curiosity, I used BP Mods cotton instead of Cotton Cloud’s, and replaced the stock AirPin with the 1.5mm one. I was a bit worried about the denser cotton, but the BP Mods cotton for the 2.5mm core still has enough room to expand without getting too compressed, so there were no dry hits this time either, I just had to wait for the minimal break-in period of the cotton, which is about 10 puffs. This build also performed exactly as expected!
For the third build, I also wrapped on a 2.5mm core size, but this time with 5 wraps of MTL Clapton. The cotton remained BP Mods, but here again, replacing the AirPin was justified due to the MTL Clapton, so it got the 1.8mm one. The slightly wider AirPin proved to be a good choice. This much airflow is the minimum required for MTL Clapton, depending on the wire thickness, of course. This required more Watts, but despite that, I managed to achieve any draw length without the wire overheating, and dry hits did not accompany the end of the puff, even though the AirPin diameter is significantly smaller than the core size, which made me a bit worried, but everything went fine and this also met expectations!
The DR MTL 2 is absolutely not a complicated device! It’s incredibly easy to build, and thanks to its versatility, it holds a lot of potential. Let’s see what I found in terms of the user experience.
User Experience Report
The materials used reflect the usual Hellvape quality. It’s not a heavy tank, but you can feel that it’s made of substantial material, yet it won’t make any mod top-heavy. The threads are perfect, the fits are flawless, and the bayonet lock is also good, but… (I’ll write about it soon)! The filling ports beneath the threaded top cap are surrounded by a thin rim, which prevents that annoying, almost common situation where, after using the tank for a while, liquid seeps out or drips down the side of the tank when you screw on the top cap. When refilling, you can fill it completely without leaks, meaning both the 2ml and 4ml capacities can be fully utilized without noticeable pressure buildup. Fortunately, the filling ports are quite large, so no matter what size dropper bottle you have, refilling won’t be a hassle. Replacing the AirPins is extremely simple, you just unscrew and screw them in, and you’re good to go, although they could have been a bit longer, but that would be nitpicking on my part. It has a fundamentally simple construction, so there’s not much more I can write, but we’ve reached the point where I’m trying to find fault with the product, because nothing is 100% perfect! As I mentioned above, the bayonet lock is slightly tight, which is why I could only separate it by hand after removing it from the mod, but sometimes it would twist elsewhere because it was so tight. However, this can be avoided by lubricating the external O-rings of the build deck. So, this is a solvable problem, and it might not even last long, as the more you use the DR MTL 2, the more the seals, which are currently slightly tight, will wear in over time. Therefore, I believe it needs time, but for the first few times, the deck will likely stick to the tank, so you’ll have to struggle with it. Furthermore, there was another thing that bothered me, and that was the instability of the long drip tip that comes pre-installed. As soon as I touched it, it wobbled, which means that unfortunately, it could easily be lost in an unguarded moment. Overall, only the long drip tip is out of place, as all other parts fit so snugly that it’s better for them to be tight than to fall apart on their own. However, you do have to get used to the bayonet lock being a bit overzealous in its operation. But apart from these, I had absolutely no issues with the tank, and we don’t usually unscrew the deck that often anyway. However, since it’s the type that sticks, it might be worth holding it by the glass when refilling the tank, because when we screw the top cap back on, we just tighten the deck further onto the tank.
Thanks to the 5 replacement AirPins, you can build for almost any MTL preference, as you’re 100% sure to find a suitable AirPin in the box. There are the ones with 2mm and 1.8mm inner diameters, one of which can be a perfect choice for MTL Clapton. Then there are the 1.5mm and the stock 1.2mm AirPins in the tank, which are so universal that they can work for anything, whether it’s a 2mm or 2.5mm core, or round wire or MTL Clapton. Although I would recommend the 1.2mm for the 2mm core and the 1.5mm for the 2.5mm core, the tank’s airflow system isn’t so restrictive that you’d get a truly harsh experience with the 1.2mm, so it could even work for a 2.5mm core size, but perhaps only for up to 4 wraps, so that the edges are also hit by the airflow, because you always have to pay attention to that! The narrowest are the 1mm and 0.8mm AirPins, which fit very well with the 2mm core. The latter two have enough air resistance to satisfy the needs of those who are fans of classic MTL. As for building, there aren’t many simpler yet more effective decks. You just place your screwdriver or coil jig into those two small semicircular cutouts, and it positions the coil for you, meaning it will be about 1.5mm above the airflow hole. Although this might seem a bit high, it has very little TH, and that little bit only tends to appear when using MTL Clapton. Wicking is just as simple as building. After threading the cotton through the coil, you just cut it level with the widest point of the deck, which is the bottom rim of the deck, and then you can place it in position. Of course, fluff up the ends for proper liquid delivery. I wouldn’t call it fussy, especially regarding wire, but when wicking, don’t use overly compressed cotton, because if it clogs the three small holes, the liquid won’t wick up, or it will take a very long time, so choose your cotton carefully. Also, it’s important to cut the cotton at the edge of the bottom rim of the deck, as that’s exactly the right length to reach the bottom of the wicking port without clogging the holes.As for the experience, I would describe it as a very flavorful RTA. It’s not sensitive to the liquid, so in terms of flavor profiles, it doesn’t matter what we use it with, it will deliver as expected. Its vapor is satisfactory with every AirPin. Not too much, not too little, but flavor is what matters anyway. It doesn’t consume much with wire at all, of course, this also depends on how much one uses it. If I filled the 4ml tank in the morning, it only emptied by early evening, meaning I consumed roughly 5ml per day with both variants of wire seen above. It emptied faster with MTL Clapton, but this is to be expected. Of course, there are thicker MTL Claptons than what I used, but with the one I used, I managed to vape almost two tanks per day, which amounts to about 7ml. Based on this, I would call it economical. It doesn’t matter which drip tip we use it with, both bring the same experience. This means that with the long one, there was no flavor loss, which is often common with a 20mm long drip tip. The short drip tip’s design follows the curve of the lips better, making it much more comfortable to use than the long one, which curves outwards at the side, almost making it slip off your mouth. I have another objection to the long drip tip, and that is wobbling. If it was in my coat pocket and I took it out, the drip tip almost fell out. Compared to the shorter one, the base of the longer drip tip is imperceptibly narrower, we’re talking about fractions of a millimeter which are barely visible, yet it’s enough for it not to fit as nicely as the shorter drip tip. Although I prefer the longer one, I don’t regret at all that the shorter one fits better, as it’s much more pleasant to use with it in terms of experience. It’s also not impossible that I just got a DR MTL 2 with a wobbly drip tip. If we want to completely empty the tank, perhaps for a liquid change, we need to be patient. Since the cotton draws liquid from the bottom, when there’s little left in the tank, the remaining liquid literally has to flow upwards to reach the cotton. When there’s only enough left in the tank to half-cover the outer feeding hole, we can only rely on the vacuum, which slowly but surely pulls that little bit of liquid into the cotton. At this point, we might experience a dry hit if we’re not patient, so we need to give it time for the cotton to absorb the liquid, as it has a very difficult job. This latter problem can be attributed to the design, but I must say the situation arises naturally. If there’s little left, we have to wait longer between two puffs, but at least there’s a solution for it, so we’re not lost.
Finally, overall, we are talking about a truly flavorful, easy-to-build RTA. True, as I wrote, nothing is perfect, so with the Hellvape Dead Rabbit MTL 2 RTA, we must sacrifice the long drip tip, the last puff in a nearly empty tank, and initially, the “I’m about to take it apart to build it” kind of looseness. For me, with tanks, I can get used to almost anything if I get good flavors in return. Let my second-to-last sentence be this: You have to adapt to this tank initially! And this is my last: I don’t think you’ll regret buying it despite this!
Thank you for reading! Have a nice day! 
részletes szakmai írás lett . Mint minden nap ma is tanultam ezt azt
Elméletileg a hónap végén már elérhető lesz.
Vagyis ami ahhoz jó volt az ehhez is megfelelő!?
