I’m back, I saw, and I put it under the microscope! This time, I had the pleasure of getting to know the Vandy Vape BSKR Mini V3 MTL RTA up close, thanks to Sourcemore. Its big brother, the Berserker V3 (B3), might be familiar to many of us. However, the smaller sibling released later is now in the spotlight. The BSKR Mini V3 doesn’t differ much from the B3 in design, and they’ve scaled down the size. Instead of 24mm, the Mini V3 has a 22mm diameter, and while the B3’s large glass tank holds 6ml, the Mini V3’s holds 4ml, which I think is quite enough. Also, the Mini V3 is 34.37mm long with the 2ml glass tank, and 43mm long with the 4ml glass tank. (In both cases, the dimensions are without the drip tip.) Despite being mini, it still stands out among tanks in terms of height, especially with one of the larger glass tanks.
I received the Simple Version, but the manufacturer also released a Standard Edition, which includes 2 extra airpins, 2 extra drip tip mouthpieces, and 2 extra metal rings, which also contain the feeding hole. The Simple Version includes the metal ring with the largest feeding hole, meaning both of the extra metal rings that come with the Standard Edition have smaller feeding holes. But don’t worry if you only find the Simple Version on the aforementioned site, because the accessories that the Standard Edition is expanded with can also be purchased separately on Sourcemore, such as the Vandy Vape BSKR Mini V3 MTL RTA Extended Accessory Kit. Enough chatter! Let’s take a look at the little one!
Vandy Vape BSKR Mini V3 MTL RTA Experience Report
Box Contents and Getting Acquainted with the Tank
As soon as we slide out the box, we see an MTL tank that is ready for use, equipped with a moderately restricted AFC from the factory. Beneath it, of course, we find spare glass tanks, which allow us to increase the capacity from the default 2ml to 4ml, and the longer drip tip mouthpiece is also located here. Inside the box, we also find a user manual, 2 pre-wound Superfine MTL Fused Claptons, 4 AFCs, a chimney extension, and of course, spare O-rings and 2 spare hex screws, along with the matching 1.5mm hex key. The tank comes with hex screws by default, but the manufacturer also considered that not everyone might like this, so they included 3 Phillips head screws in the package.
The mentioned AFCs can be seen below, which also serve as the center pin, hence we call them airpins. From left to right, they are equipped with air inlets of 2, 1.6, 1.2, 1, and 0.8mm width. The Extended Accessory Kit, which can be purchased separately, contains the 1.4 and 1.8mm airpins. The tank comes with the 1.2mm one installed, which is a kind of watershed, as it’s neither too tight nor too airy, but it provided a rather divisive experience for me. These are extremely easy to replace, as the protruding contact has a rim that is very easy to grip with a fingernail. Simply pull it out and insert the other one.
The tank itself doesn’t consist of many parts. The drip tip is made of two parts. Since we screw it into a threaded base, we can replace the plastic mouthpiece with a longer one provided by the manufacturer. Additionally, the separately purchasable Extended Accessory Kit includes 2 more mouthpieces for the BSKR Mini V3. The longer mouthpiece included in the box is less curved than the smaller one. The top cap has a bayonet lock, which requires just a quarter turn to remove, but it stays firmly in place, so it won’t unscrew in your pocket, for example. Next is the filling hole, which is the top of the tank itself. Similar to the Berserker V2, it features a rubber membrane filling port. To my great disappointment, unlike the V2, the spare O-ring here also has a rubber membrane, which I’m not a big fan of functionally, but I see its advantage, which I will explain a bit later. Next is the viewing window, or glass tank. The manufacturer equipped the BSKR Mini V3 with this tiny glass by default, which has a 2ml capacity. Finally, we see the dedicated top part of the deck, which only accommodates the build deck from below.
Between the two drip tip mouthpieces, the smaller one worked best for me. The length of the other bothered me slightly, causing it to get caught on almost everything and stick out everywhere. Under normal use, I didn’t experience any significant difference in the vaping experience. The longer one made the vapor slightly cooler, but I only noticed this with certain wires and only above 15 watts. Below the mentioned wattage range, the vapor is already cool, so I would only recommend the longer one for RDL use, and of course, if you prefer it that way. I didn’t experience any flavor loss even with the longer drip tip.
Since we were at the top part of the deck before the drip tips, it’s worth noting that it’s a good idea to check the threaded part before use, as I found some metal shavings in my unit. But don’t panic, we usually wash the tanks before use anyway, right? Right! If washing doesn’t remove it, a crumpled wet tissue will easily take it out.
With the help of the chimney extension included in the package, we can use the tank with one of the 4ml glass tanks. The chimney extension can be installed almost anytime, you don’t have to wait for a rewick, but it’s advisable to empty the tank beforehand, because if the vacuum in the tank is lost, it can easily leak, which is true for all RTAs. After installing the chimney extension and the 4ml glass tank, we then screw on the top of the tank, which also contains the filling holes. Installing this requires some patience, as these parts have very few threads, so the top part wobbles a bit until it properly catches the thread.
As you can see in the picture below, this is how the 4ml glass and metal tank looks. The latter is better used with TC mode to avoid an unpleasant dry hit. The glass tanks seem quite robust, but even they can’t withstand everything.
We’ve reached the build deck. We can find a metal ring on it, which resembles the Dvarw PEEK sleeve and functions similarly, only it’s less of a hassle to install. On one of the 2 metal rings in the Extended Accessory Kit, we find 2 x 1mm feeding holes, and on the other metal ring, a 2.2x4.4mm feeding hole. If we purchase these, we can build even the tightest MTL setup. Moreover, these can handle liquids with higher PG content. The metal ring included in the Simple Version, visible in the picture, truly only likes balanced liquids. However, the internal design of the tank also plays a role in this, which I will discuss further down.
The coil securing is simple and beginner-friendly, as you just tighten the screw onto the wire after inserting it into the two small holes on the post. As I mentioned above, this sleeve is less fiddly than the Dvarw’s, but serves the same purpose, which is to act as the feeding hole. Thus, the wicking of the BSKR Mini V3 is eerily similar to the Dvarw’s. We place the small metal part on the sleeve or ring into the recess on the build deck. However, our job is made easier here because the wick won’t be as tight, and the recess isn’t as precisely sized as the small metal part. This will create a slight play in the ring, which is not the case with the Dvarw, making it easy to install. Furthermore, the mentioned ring can be installed from either direction, so you don’t even have to search to see if you’re installing it correctly.
Let’s Coil It!
The first coil was made on a 2mm inner diameter, with 6 wraps of Kanthal and Vapefly Cotton Cloud’s cotton. Since a frequent complaint about its bigger sibling was leaking, I thought I wouldn’t even give spitting a chance. I left plenty of cotton because I wanted to be sure…
After placing the metal ring on the build deck, I folded up the cotton, then fluffed it and tucked in the ends, as I usually do with the Dvarw. As I wrote, I wanted to be sure, but this amount of cotton proved to be too much.
The second coil was on a 2.5mm inner diameter, but I kept the 6 wraps of Kanthal and Cotton Cloud’s cotton. Here I used less cotton compared to the previous picture, but I still had the fear that there might be leaking later on. I must note, there wasn’t, it was only slightly gurgly for the first few puffs, then it settled down. The gurgling never reappeared. Although, I might have over-wicked it, it happens sometimes.
The picture below clearly shows the smaller amount of cotton. You don’t need to put more than this. I wanted the ends of the cotton to point directly towards the wicking ports. I use this “mustache wicking” style on the Dvarw as well, but with the BSKR Mini V3, just like with the other tank I mentioned, it’s almost inevitable that this wicking style will be the end result. It simply requires this much, and this way.
The third coil was made with MTL Clapton, 6 wraps of Ni80 on a 2.5mm inner diameter. The cotton is still Cotton Cloud’s, and I didn’t change the wicking compared to the previous coil, it remained the “mustache” style. My coil parameters are very close to the factory coils included in the box. Since the manufacturer recommends MTL Clapton, I decided to try it. Of course, the focus here is also on wicking, as it’s easier to get a dry hit with this setup than with the two above. Therefore, I first used it at a low 12 watts, and after the cotton broke in, I increased the power to 14-15 watts.
I believe the ease of coiling compensates for the mandatory attention required for wicking. Nevertheless, neither method is complicated; it’s just a bit picky about the cotton, which fortunately becomes apparent immediately. What do I mean? You’ll read about it right away. So, let’s get to the most important part.
User Experience Report
Regarding the tank itself, I really can’t fault it. The threads are well-machined, the material quality is perfect, the tank’s construction is simple and doesn’t have too many parts, which greatly facilitates cleaning. Even after numerous refills, there was no leaking, which I actually expected after hearing the rumors about the B3. Replacing the airpins couldn’t be simpler, so it’s also quick, and you don’t even need a screwdriver. Just grab it with your fingernail, pull it out, and replace it. For me, the only negative is that cursed rubber membrane on the fill port! I don’t have a problem with this solution only allowing refills from Chubby Gorilla bottles, but the advantage of the open double wicking ports is that while I’m filling through one, I can see through the other when the liquid reaches the top of the tank. By sealing the fill port with a cursed rubber membrane, I not only can’t see the liquid level, but since the liquid doesn’t really pass through the cursed membrane, overpressure can easily build up, causing the liquid to take the path of least resistance, which points towards the airflow inlet, and this can result in leaking. So, this type of filling has to be learned. It took a few refills until I found the correct filling procedure where the tank is full, but the liquid hasn’t leaked out of the airflow yet. Therefore, I don’t think it’s worth filling it completely, because there’s a risk of it leaking. As soon as the liquid reaches the top O-ring, that’s where you should stop filling. It’s just below that cursed membrane, and you’ll get about 4ml, so no overpressure occurs. I must say, it’s not a complicated thing, but it really bothered me. It bothered me on the V2 as well, but at least there the spare gasket wasn’t so cursed, so I replaced it and wasn’t annoyed by it anymore. The supposed advantage of this rubber membrane is to keep the top cap dry, so we won’t be covered in liquid after the third refill, which, incidentally, it does fulfill, but for me, it’s more of a disadvantage. Not to mention that when using it with the metal sleeve, you really have to guess how much to fill. Of course, some people won’t be as bothered by this, and some will find a way around it, but until then, be damned, you damned rubber membrane!
Building the BSKR Mini V3 is incredibly simple. As I mentioned above, you just insert the coil legs into the holes on the posts and tighten the screws. Absolutely beginner-friendly. However, wicking matters, and you really need to pay attention to it! If you have or had a Dvarw, this won’t be new to you. You shouldn’t overstuff it, and it doesn’t like tightly packed cotton, otherwise, the juice flow will be difficult. Since there’s little space between the inner wall of the deck and the RTA chamber, you shouldn’t use liquids with a higher VG ratio than balanced. The metal ring with the wicking ports connects to the chamber, so the liquid only needs to flow through that approximately 1-1.5mm space between the inner wall and the chamber to reach the cotton. If the cotton is too dense, or it sticks out of the wicking port, compressing it, or if it’s left too long and stuffed in, the juice flow will also be poor. But don’t panic! If you have a good quality, loosely structured cotton and cut it so it reaches the wicking port but doesn’t stick out, just rests on it, it will be perfect. Just like with the Dvarw. Not to mention, the RTA chamber is very short, so elevated or TH-focused coils are not feasible. With round wire, I wouldn’t say it’s harsh, but with MTL Clapton, you can get some TH. Regarding how intense the throat hit will be, I have to say it’s not excessive. It just adds a little to the nicotine strength, which might prove insufficient for TH enthusiasts.As for the experience, I was not disappointed! After it became clear to me almost immediately, after the first build, that it is sensitive to wicking, I didn’t want to deviate from Cotton Cloud’s anymore. The moustache wicking used in the second and third builds also worked well. I made sure that the cotton did not hang out of the wicking port, but only covered it from the inside. The tank’s sensitivity to cotton is also evident in the fact that even Cotton Cloud’s, which produced good flavors almost immediately, needed about 20-30 puffs to not taste the cotton as an off-flavor. When building with wire on a 2mm core, the coil break-in time was the shortest, as it required the least amount of cotton. I later trimmed some of the cotton from the first wicking because, as I wrote in the build picture above, it turned out to be too much. With wire wrapped on a 2.5mm core, it took a little longer; here I can confidently say that 30 puffs were needed to eliminate the cotton off-flavor. The same applied to MTL Clapton. This was because more metal also required more watts, so the cotton initially couldn’t keep up with the faster-evaporating liquid. Fortunately, those 20-30 puffs are not that many. After the off-flavor disappeared, it delivered the flavors perfectly with all three setups. There was no shortage of vapor either, but this can, of course, be enhanced with a larger airpin and higher wattage. The 1.2mm airpin is perfect for the 2mm core size, although it was a bit tight for me, so I switched to a 1.6mm and increased the wattage, which, I admit, brought a breakthrough in flavor. A longer drip tip was necessary here to cool the vapor slightly. The wire wrapped on the 2.5mm core also performed best with the 1.6mm airpin, but staying around 10-12 watts was enough for the shorter drip tip as well. I managed to bring out superb flavors! I thought no surprise could surprise me anymore. With this tank and MTL Clapton, however, you can reach the peak of peaks, both in flavor and vapor! It’s no coincidence that this is the manufacturer’s recommendation. The 2ml tank could roughly serve the setup wrapped on a 2mm core, but the 2.5mm and MTL Clapton builds definitely require the 4ml capacity. I believe that 5-6 wraps of MTL Clapton on a 2.5mm core at 14-15 watts, with a 1.6mm airpin and a short drip tip, is unbeatable! But let’s not forget that with wire wrapped on a 2.5mm core, even with 6 wraps, it perfectly delivers what’s expected. I didn’t have such a big problem with the wire wrapped on a 2mm core either, only its 1.2mm airpin is suitable, which is a bit tight for me; with a wider airpin and higher wattage, the vapor is too hot, but the flavor compensated for everything! It is also advisable not to increase the power while you can still feel the secondary cotton taste, otherwise, it will result in a dry hit. So, there’s plenty of room to vary the builds, and it will handle all of them. For me, the BSKR Mini V3 passed with flying colors with all three setups!
This tank holds a lot of potential! That’s what’s beautiful about this hobby, that everyone can find the most suitable setting, setup, and build for themselves. It’s the icing on the cake that even a single tank is capable of satisfying lovers of all directions of MTL use! The Vandy Vape BSKR Mini V3 MTL RTA can literally suit anyone, from classic MTL lovers to RDL fans! You have to be careful with wicking, but there will be no shortage of flavor and vapor!
Thank you for reading! Have a nice day! 
Köszönöm az észrevételt, hamarosan pótolom. 
De legalább külön meg lehet vásárolni. Sajnos be kell érnünk ennyivel. 
Nekem az 1.6-ossal volt nagyon tuti, 15 watt körül. Meg én a Vandy huzalokat jobbnak tartom, de lehet csak nekem azok.