I’m back again with a product review from Sourcemore! This time, a Vandy Vape Pulse AIO V2 kit arrived. Honestly, I was really looking forward to this device, because, like perhaps others besides myself, its appearance immediately captivated me. So I became even more curious about what it can actually do. This is not a standard Boro AIO in this case, as it is equipped with many new features, almost innovative ones, which result in a very lovable device. The Vandy Chip, version 3.0.1, really rocks in terms of experience. Available in 6 color variations: Black, Klein Blue, Violet, Red, Celeste, and Sakura Pink. The one that arrived with me is, in my opinion, the most striking color: Red.
There were issues with the predecessor of the device, which we could read about in some posts by our members. In this review combined with a personal experience report, we will see if the manufacturer managed to correct these in the improved V2. Let’s see what this beauty can do!
Vandy Vape Pulse AIO V2 Review and Experience Report
Box Contents and Getting to Know the Device
Before I started the test, I admired it for a long time in the box. It’s beautiful and cool at the same time. It’s not an everyday device!
When the fog cleared, I carefully unpacked everything from the box. Including the accessories, which consist of the following: an approximately 1.4 Torx screwdriver (this is not for building coils), 3 drip tip reducer inserts (the largest of which is pre-installed), 4 AFC inserts (the 0.3mm one is pre-installed), a delrin (black) and a teflon (white) drip tip, a 510 adapter (this is what we will build on), and of course, a bag of seals for the Boro tank, including 2 spare screws, and a dedicated coin with which we can unscrew and screw the retaining nut onto which the drip tip is also placed.
Here is the dedicated Vandy Vape coin. Besides how cool it is, we use it to screw the nut onto the tank. It’s not enough with hand strength, so this will definitely be an important accessory for the Pulse AIO V2.
The AFC inserts: 1.5 and 2mm for MTL, 3 and 4mm inner diameter for DL. As we can see, it receives air from the side, which I think slightly slows down the airflow, but it’s hardly noticeable in the experience.
These are the drip tip reducer inserts. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find information on the manufacturer’s website or elsewhere about their inner diameters.
We insert the drip tip reducer directly before attaching the drip tip, and then the drip tip goes on. It’s not a problem if it’s not there for DL, but for MTL, I found it very airy without it, which meant the vapor wasn’t “biteable,” so to speak.
For those who own a Vandy Vape product for the first time, it might be new that the battery needs to be inserted upside down. There’s a very simple reason for this. The current travels a shorter path, so the mod’s reaction will be faster when the fire button is pressed. What’s also noticeable with the Pulse AIO V2 is that the battery needs to be fastened, not just placed inside. Personally, I see the advantage of this, as we don’t have to struggle if we want to remove the battery; it doesn’t get stuck. We simply unscrew the screw at the negative contact of the mod and easily tilt it out of its place. However, it’s easier to insert than to remove, as there’s a slight magnetism felt at the negative connector which gently pulls the battery in when inserting. There’s a understandable reason for this too, as it prevents the battery from falling out if we’re careless during replacement.
After removing the Boro tank, I examined it thoroughly. Like all others, it can be disassembled. The Boro tank feels high-quality in terms of material. The tank made of PCTG (polycyclohexylenedimethylene terephthalate) plastic is resistant to almost everything. It won’t be easy to break, but let’s not try it! It’s not overly sensitive to pressure, but it does give in a bit to force. Since the Boro is slightly smoky in shade, it also intensifies the color of the liquids, making them appear a bit darker in the tank, but I think this is a positive point because it makes it easier to see exactly how much is left. The RBA is neither complicated nor simple… I’ll tell you now that this really made me sweat!
Let’s get to the point. I tried to build on it using the 510 adapter. Or rather, I would have tried if the retaining screw had come out. As I mentioned, the Torx screwdriver is not for the retaining screws. The manufacturer does not provide a separate screwdriver for these screws, but the screw itself is hex-head, however, the 1.5mm hex I use for the Dwarv is too large for this. A smaller one is needed (which, if I recall correctly, is 1.3mm), which I unfortunately don’t have at home. As a workaround, I grabbed my bit set, where the smallest, the T5 Torx, fit, and with great effort, I managed to unscrew the left screw which was stuck from the factory. There was no problem with the right one, but there might have been something in the hole of the aforementioned left one, perhaps a burr, which jammed the screw. It didn’t come out with a simple blow, only after a quick wash did the screw fastening become perfect. So far, this was my smallest problem…
Okay, problem solved. I wrapped it on a 2.5mm inner diameter core with 6 wraps of Kanthal. The fastening is now perfect, and the oxidation is also perfect. It glows nicely, not sluggish even at low wattage.
For the first wicking, I decided to cut the cotton in advance. I roughly estimated how much would stick out. I didn’t want too much sticking out, so it wouldn’t leak liquid. I used BP Mods 2.5mm diameter cotton.
Visually, it turned out perfect, but unfortunately, this much cotton is too little for it.
But since, as expected, it started gurgling almost immediately, not severely, but it bothered me quite a bit, so during the second wicking, I cut the cotton after placing the RBA chamber on it, then cut the cotton so that a larger piece would stick out. I still kept the 2.5mm core size and the 2.5mm BP Mods cotton.
But it wasn’t quite right! It gurgled even with more cotton sticking out. So I did something I’ve NEVER done before! I wrapped a coil on a triple core! I left one less wrap, 5 turns on the coil, because I wanted to stay around 1 Ohm, which I succeeded in doing. This now requires more cotton, but I thought with such a large core size, Vapefly Cotton Cloud’s 3mm diameter cotton would also hold up, and fortunately, it did. In MTL, to avoid gurgling and potential leaking, 5 turns on a triple core with Cotton Cloud’s cotton was the winner! However, the flavor still left something to be desired.
Leaking and gurgling solved! Nothing left to do but use MTL Clapton to get better flavors out of it. I stuck with the triple core for 5 wraps, but this time I used Ni80 MTL Clapton. The cotton remained Vapefly Cotton Cloud’s, left long. And lo and behold, every liquid has its usual flavor! Although the Ohm dropped a bit, I managed to stay around 0.8, almost 1 Ohm.
When assembling the Boro, I first noticed that the seals don’t hold the parts very tightly. This itself caused several inconveniences, as the RBA bell easily moved out of place if I accidentally touched it, but if you screw the top nut on properly (which is why it’s not enough by hand, you definitely need a coin for it), it holds everything together perfectly!
A piece of advice: In the Boro, if you’ve already removed everything, it’s best to insert the RBA screwed into the bottom first, and only then the chimney. It’s not impossible the other way around, just a bit harder to align the chimney in place because it often starts to wobble in the tank, as I mentioned, the seals don’t hold strongly enough.
Filling went without a hitch, despite the Boro tank’s design. This is because the filling hole inside the tank is slightly recessed, meaning the liquid reaches its wall first during filling, so you can’t actually overfill the tank because the area around the filling hole is lower inside the tank. This is good because it definitely won’t leak due to overpressure. However, bottles with wide drip tips are not suitable for this Boro tank. It’s best to fill it with a Chubby Gorilla or a similar bottle with a thin dropper.
As I mentioned, the Torx included in the box is not for coiling, but for the panel screws. There are 3 panels we can remove. The panel protecting the display and the Vandy Chip, the panel on the back to which the button is attached, and the red metal panel holding the button. As soon as I removed the button holder, the button literally fell off, as there’s a slight springiness to the panel. It appears to be a simple PCB, but since I don’t have professional insight into this, I wouldn’t dare state it with full certainty! The button connector attaches to the rear board, whose panel cannot be removed. Colored replacement panels are available for the device, and the Blueprint can be downloaded from the Vandy Vape website, allowing you to print panels with any desired pattern using a 3D printer. However, this transparent panel is good because it makes it easier to notice if liquid seeps between the two panels. Unfortunately, it’s prone to this if you don’t wick it well enough. This makes it absolutely understandable why the manufacturer included the screwdriver for the panels in the package. The panel on the bottom of the device cannot be removed with this screwdriver! The IP67 marking is also visible on the bottom, which signifies water resistance. So, even if it gets wet, the device itself won’t be destroyed, but the liquid constantly leaking from between the panels, which has already seeped in, will be annoying. Therefore, until you get the hang of coiling and wicking, don’t put the screwdriver too far away.
When reassembling, be very careful with the PCB button! It’s not the easiest to put back because it slides on the panel, but it’s not an impossible mission. Once we’ve put the back panel back on, which displays the Pulse logo reversed, we then place the PCB button on it, then the plastic button, and after that, we place the button holder panel on top. By the way, it’s much easier if we do it the other way around. Put the plastic button into the button holder panel, then the PCB button on top of it, then turn the device over onto all of this, and then after turning the whole assembly back, we just need to screw it in. Everything has grooves on the panels, so we won’t encounter difficulties. Be careful with the PCB button, as it appears quite fragile! When assembled like this, the reversed Pulse logo is no longer visible, but if we remove the Boro tank from the front, the logo will be readable correctly.
There is heat-diffusing adhesive on the Vandy Chip and the front board itself, which prevents leakage. Without this material, it couldn’t have received the IP67 rating. If liquid accidentally gets in here, the board can be cleaned easily and much more confidently. However, it typically leaks towards the back panel, where the board is protected by a non-removable transparent panel.
Perhaps my disapproval of the coiling and Boro tank was slightly noticeable in my writing. The stuck screw is just one thing, it can happen with other products too (I’ll note here that the panel screws were very difficult to turn at first), but the bottom of the Boro tank was a huge disappointment for me. As visible in the picture, the threaded metal part that holds the RBA came loose. It simply came out with the RBA when I wanted to disassemble the Boro for a new build one time. It would be an exaggeration to say it’s unusable like this, but from a manufacturer with such a history and name as Vandy Vape, I wouldn’t have expected this! In its current state, the only way I can salvage the situation is to screw that threaded part onto the already built RBA, and then pull the bottom of the Boro onto it. I will note, however, that the device is still usable like this, but it has its consequences…
When I put everything back in place and tightened the top nut where the drip tip is also attached, it spun the RBA nicely. The silver lining is that there aren’t too many threads, so it didn’t twist it too much, but now it’s just… The picture hopefully shows clearly that the cotton ends are not sitting by the side of the Boro tank, but have lined up in the corner, like after a bad prank. Well, thanks Vandy Vape, I didn’t ask for pranks like this!
We can find two types of menus in the Pulse AIO V2. In the first, which I believe is the main menu, pressing the fire button three times quickly makes the Watt value set on the mod flash, then by pressing the + button, we can first set the TC. As usual, the manufacturer has equipped it with SS, Ti, and Ni temperature control. This is followed by Bypass, which is intended to mimic the mecha trend. Finally, we encounter Volt mode, with which we can obviously adjust the battery’s Volt value, thus always loading the coil with the voltage we have set. This menu item is interesting and useful because in Watt mode, the voltage output by the battery constantly changes, but when using the mod in Volt mode, it constantly outputs a stable value, which, when set to a low Volt, is not only battery-saving but also the heating intensity does not decrease as the battery drains. Of course, MTL Clapton is an exception to this; it will decrease after a while!
[video=K6taGguO4FsqHR6GaW3H9sZTnEeyuZe8wqUMN4DzNt00] [download-video=K6taGguO4FsqHR6GaW3H9sZTnEeyuZe8wqUMN4DzNt00]
In the video below, we can see the secondary menu items. If we press and hold the + and - buttons simultaneously, we can choose from three menu items. The + buttonThe mod is pressed, and using the fire button to enter the first menu, we can first reset the puff counter. With the second menu item, we can read the Vandy Chip version number. The third menu item is TCR, which is set to 6500 by default and I couldn’t adjust it, I assume because the correct wire was not in the RBA, so unfortunately I couldn’t try this. As seen in the video, we have to wait 10 seconds until the display goes dark, then it exits the menu, and only after that can we use the mod again.
[video=mUeRRYAYgiE01UbF1oOoCBSoLJajQYnG01bl00qaT9Kbh8] [download-video=mUeRRYAYgiE01UbF1oOoCBSoLJajQYnG01bl00qaT9Kbh8]
One of our Tags wrote that they hope the Pulse AIO V2 doesn’t collect scratches like its predecessor. I report that the aluminum alloy housing does not scratch at all, more precisely, there isn’t even a slight sign of paint wear on it, so it won’t break like its predecessor! However, the PCTG panels have a bizarre relationship with micro-scratches. Magnifying the image, but perhaps it’s unnecessary, the micro-scratches almost wave in the sunlight! But they only like sunlight! They are not really visible under artificial light! So this might not be that bad. Anyway, the panels still pick up fingerprints a lot, though the Boro tank does too. Perhaps this is a characteristic of PCTG.
Now that I’ve given you a virtual tour, let’s move on to the much more interesting in-use experiences!
Experience Report
With wire, I had difficulty getting the maximum out of it. Due to my metal sensitivity, I didn’t try SS, but since Kanthal has met expectations in everything so far, I wanted to stick with it, but unfortunately, or fortunately, I did try a bit of Ni80. This is because the Pulse RBA didn’t like Kanthal. T-Juice Colonel Custard is one of my favorite vanilla flavors, of which I unfortunately didn’t taste much with Kanthal. Besides this, I also tested it with various Al Carlo flavors; Kanthal handles stronger flavors better in wire form, but it’s still not quite right. Additionally, with wire, it produces rich vapor, even at 10 Watts, although this is mainly thanks to the Vandy Chip, which reacts instantly to button presses, meaning ignition is immediate. If the wire has ramp-up time, it’s negligible with the Pulse AIO V2. After I realized that it only works well with a triple core, I made all my attempts with this core size. However, it performed excellently with MTL Clapton! Even the vanilla of Colonel Custard became clearly discernible and enjoyable. The MTL Clapton consumed more liquid, but for airflow, I stuck with the 2mm AFC insert and the smallest drip tip reducer. It didn’t produce more vapor with Clapton, which I don’t think is a bad thing, because I still got a satisfactory amount of vapor. With this build, I had to refill the Boro 3 times a day, while with wire only twice, but I don’t think this is a negative or a positive. We know well, MTL Clapton is like that. 12 Watts proved to be more than enough, I pushed the Clapton to a maximum of 13 Watts, but even then, I can boast of good battery life. With Clapton, it easily lasts the day, and with wire, even the next day.
I experimented with Volt mode and Bypass for a while. Honestly, neither mode offered more with MTL Clapton. In terms of experience, I got the same result as in Watt mode, which I think is good, because in Watt mode and Volt mode, the displayed values were close to each other, indicating quality electronics! Although, thinking about it a bit more, MTL Clapton doesn’t need Volt mode or Bypass. With wire, the balance tipped in a positive direction. Faster vaporization and even more vapor characterized Volt mode, but with Bypass, the same was even more pronounced. The vapor didn’t get much warmer, but it remained just below my tolerance limit, so I must say that Volt mode or Bypass suits wire the best. With these, it’s absolutely not out of the question to use your usual wire in the RBA. However, the MTL Clapton provided a hard-to-explain little extra to the experience, which is why I have to write that, even though using wire in Volt and Bypass is possible, I would rather stick with MTL Clapton for the Pulse AIO V2.
As I wrote, there were indeed difficulties. The fact that the grub screw was difficult to remove, and that the bottom of the Boro essentially fell apart, I wouldn’t call a series defect for now. It’s more likely that this particular unit is like that. But you will report it yourselves if I’m wrong! I used the 2mm AFC insert and the smallest drip tip reducer throughout the test. The airflow settings were compatible with wire as well as with MTL Clapton. I tried to set the usage mode closest to my preference and the one that best suits the device. The other AFCs and reducers proved to be either too airy or too restrictive for me. If the drip tip reducer was too airy, the vapor intensity disappeared, and if the AFC was airy, the wire simply cooled down too much and there was no flavor. In the opposite case, when the AFC was too restrictive, I got hot vapor, which I didn’t like at all, so I avoided it.
Air enters through the side panel and through the mod’s side via so-called honeycomb-style ventilation holes, the advantage of which is that it makes the inflow soft and smooth. I could also call this slowness, but the fact is that the experience becomes soft precisely because the device has air inlets through which air does not rush in at high speed. Even in DL, it results in nice, leisurely puffs. I also have to mention that the device is feather-light without a battery, but it’s not heavy with a battery either, so if someone wants a pocket-friendly device, this light and small Pulse AIO V2 could be a good choice with its length of 77.3mm, width of 51mm, and thickness of 23.4mm.
I found it difficult to get used to the display not being on the button-side. It caused a few comical moments when I expected it to light up under the button, then I realized I had to turn the device around. Otherwise, the menu is very easy to get used to and learn, thanks to the fact that we essentially get two menus, so everything isn’t crammed together, but the menu items are nicely separated. The brightness cannot be adjusted, but it is not at all bothersome, even in the dark. And now let’s summarize the pros and cons!
—### Pros 
- Vandy Chip 3.0.1. This is the heart and soul of the device! Not only is it easy to use, has fast ramp-up, is battery-saving, and measures accurately, but they’ve also managed to achieve commendable harmony between the modes. The Volt and Watt modes are in perfect sync, as the values displayed by the device remain accurate when projected onto both modes.
- Aluminum alloy housing and PCTG panels. The aluminum housing is indestructible, and PCTG’s characteristic is toughness. Or I could say it withstands forces and liquid well. These panels won’t break easily for any reason.
- Paint wear is not a characteristic. I didn’t spare it while using it, but there’s no sign of wear on the paint. It doesn’t pick up scratches, doesn’t wear off, in short, it’s durable. Although it’s true I didn’t try to play football with it, if the zipper didn’t scrape off the paint, then perhaps nothing else will.
- Easy to build and wick the Pulse RBA. The manufacturer chose the simplest connection principle, which is also beneficial for beginners. Wicking it is also simple, almost undemanding.
- Easy to disassemble and clean. There will be occasions when some liquid or vapor seeps between the two panels, so cleaning will be essential after a while. Unscrewing it is a bit difficult the first time, but after that, everything goes smoothly. Due to the design, it’s hard to put anything on backwards or swap parts. You don’t need to be overly careful when cleaning either; the heat-resistant adhesive can withstand a lot. This is precisely where its ease lies.
- Easily interchangeable AFC and drip tip restrictor insert. We don’t need to disassemble the Boro tank to change the AFC, as the contact peeking out at the bottom also serves as the AFC. We simply unscrew this, screw in the other, and the Boro can be put back in place. Of course, it’s advisable to do this with an empty Boro, as the seals won’t hold strongly enough, since, as I wrote above, the top nut holds it together. With the drip tip restrictor, it’s even simpler: by removing the drip tip, we simply turn the AIO upside down, causing the restrictor to fall out, and we can replace it with one we like. If condensation slightly holds the restrictor in place, it comes out with a gentle shake, but this isn’t a major effort either.
- Manages the battery well. Since the electronics only tick (audible up close) when the display is awake, it doesn’t drain the battery unnecessarily. It’s similar to Dicodes, where you can set the SwOff Time between 1-60 minutes before the electronics go into sleep mode if not in use. However, unlike Dicodes, this time is only 10 seconds for the Pulse AIO V2. Even during use, it didn’t draw more than 3.5 Volts from the battery. Of course, the latter depends heavily on the coil and Wattage as well.
- Received IP67 rating. Water resistance doesn’t just mean you can use it bravely in the rain, but it also means it’s completely protected from ingressing liquid and any condensation that might form. Other mods could also benefit from an IP67 rating. With this, the Pulse AIO V2 has become practically eternal, as the biggest enemy of all mods is liquid.
- Large liquid capacity Boro tank. With its 6ml capacity, I personally only needed to refill it 2-3 times a day. You can even take it on longer trips, as 6ml is not a small amount. However, if you equip it with an MTL Clapton, you should bring spare liquid.
- Easy-to-manage menu(s). It was a bit strange for me that the menus can be accessed from two places, but I think this way everything is more transparent and easier to find than if it were all crammed together. The main thing is the main menu, which can be accessed by pressing the fire button three times quickly, and its usability is extremely simple. The other menu items are no less important, but still secondary. It’s brilliant that TCR isn’t in the main menu. I consider it a good thing because we don’t fiddle with it mindlessly (at least I don’t) if it’s not directly in front of our eyes. Compared to TCR, I find regular TC more user-friendly, which is, however, among the more important menu items in the main menu.
- Fixed buttons and panels. All three buttons click nicely (and audibly). None of them are loose; the fire button rotates, but this is less annoying than with the Centaurus B60. The panel under the PCB button is fixed and cannot be moved at all; it’s placed perfectly. The interchangeable panels are also fixed, even if you don’t screw them in completely, at most the magnetic outer panel will stick out slightly, but you can’t tell otherwise, as it doesn’t rattle or move. If it’s screwed in properly, then definitely not. The magnets in the panels hold them perfectly and strongly; it’s impossible to fault them!
- Comfortable drip tips. I used the black (delrin) drip tip because it matched the red color best. However, the white (Teflon) drip tip performed just as well during the short time I used it. Both are comfortable to use. What’s important to me is that neither of them gets hot at all. (This shows I didn’t question whether it was plain plastic, delrin, or Teflon.)
- Magnetic positive battery terminal. After the IP67 rating and menu layout, this is the other brilliant innovation that perhaps I haven’t seen elsewhere. The magnetic terminal saves us from many unpleasant moments because it prevents the battery from falling out if we’re careless. I think every mod should have this, of course, where the design allows.
- Easily rebuildable on another mod. If you don’t like building on the included 510 adapter, you can easily screw the Pulse RBA onto any other mod. It’s true that the mod is too narrow for your hand to immediately get used to building on it.
Contra 
- Sensitive to wicking. Always keep in mind that a Boro RBA has a completely different structure than an RTA. You cannot achieve spread-out wicking or a cotton dam with it; only “mustache” wicking can be used. The triple core size provides sufficiently thick cotton, but if we cut it too short, it will unfortunately leak. This is more suited for high-VG liquids!
- Sensitive to coil type. Wire coils will not be a 100% suitable choice here. Of course, you can increase the coil size and experiment with Volt mode and Bypass to achieve something similar to an MTL Clapton, but it will never be the same. Anyone choosing the Pulse AIO V2 should also put some MTL Claptons in their cart.
- Collects micro-scratches and fingerprints. You can’t see it if you just look at it, but as soon as sunlight hits it, or you hold it directly towards a lamp, the micro-scratches become glaringly obvious. Of course, you can live with this, and you can even buy aluminum alloy panels for it, but it would still be nicer if the PCTG panel didn’t look like another device after 3 months when it’s only 1 week old.
- No Allen key for set screws. It’s extremely regrettable that if they don’t use the usual screw sizes in the RBA, they don’t include a suitable Allen screwdriver. But no worries, you can buy one at OBI in the hardware section, or even substitute it with a T5 Torx, but it’s much more comfortable to use something if you have all the accessories for it.
- Slight condensation due to heat. Although this is not a major tragedy, it was somewhat annoying from the perspective that if I didn’t release the fire button 2 seconds before finishing the puff, a small amount of liquid vapor appeared under the Boro after a few days, which, if I was lucky, didn’t leak behind the panel under the button. The solution is simple: release the fire button 2 seconds before finishing the puff, so the coil can cool down completely. If you do this, you won’t have to remove the panels and wipe everything down. You’ll still have to do that a few times anyway.
—Despite all the bad experiences, in the end I have to write that it wasn’t such a disappointment that I would dissuade everyone from this product. There is no problem or issue that could get the better of us! They haven’t invented anything yet that couldn’t somehow be made appealing! The Vandy Vape Pulse AIO V2 is exactly like that for me. Regardless of the fact that a screw got stuck and the bottom of the Boro fell apart, it’s not a bad device, because these are such small problems that the experience compensates for. True, it won’t compensate right next to a wire, but you can get the most out of it if you dedicate enough time to understanding it and troubleshooting, which, by the way, doesn’t seem like such a daunting task in retrospect. Moreover, it’s possible that only my unit is this finicky, and these issues won’t occur for others. In any case, it’s worth sleeping on it before someone hits enter. And if you are sure of yourself, a whole new world will open up before you after an RTA!
For those who prefer RDL or DL usage, or are looking for a compact device with a replaceable battery that they don’t have to worry about breaking if it leaks, the Vandy Vape Pulse AIO V2 could be a perfect choice!
Thank you for reading! Have a nice day! 
személy szerint az én kedvem nem hozta meg, viszont az eddigi legátfogóbb, legnormálisabb leírás vagy ismertető, amit erről a kütyüről olvastam. 
köszi
Nagyon rajta voltam, hogy berendeljem de ezután inkább elengedem. Maradok a kis világomnál ami bevált.
Gratulálok a kimritő bemutatóhoz,nagyon tetszett!!! 
Az az 1 szerencsém van,hogy sosem vonzottak az AIO-BORO készülékek,így nyugodtan fogok aludni! 
Örülök, hogy tetszett a teszt! 
Köszönöm. 
Hogy elment 4 év. 
