This time, a DL RTA has entered the repertoire, by Sourcemore. We will now talk about the tank named Solo from the Dead Rabbit series, manufactured by HellVape, which is liked by many. As the name suggests, it only accepts a single coil, but this is more than enough to get an excellent DL experience, and it doesn’t drain the battery too much compared to its dual sibling. I was really looking forward to it arriving, but unfortunately, the post office played a little trick on me. It was sent on a world tour, along with the BSKR, before I could get my hands on it. It traveled across most of Europe and Korea twice. This is a well-traveled bunny, and now, after many years of absence, I can once again get a glimpse into the DL world with it. Let’s see how I got along with the DR Solo.
HellVape Dead Rabbit Solo RTA Review
Contents of the box and getting acquainted with the tank
As soon as I managed to free it from the box’s grip with great difficulty, the tank itself and a bubble glass, which increases the liquid capacity to 4ml, were revealed to me. Not much comes with it besides the bubble glass: just a user manual, 4 spare grub screws, also 4 spare O-rings, and a small blue screwdriver. If you happen to buy the TPD Edition, the bubble glass will not be included.
The tank itself doesn’t consist of many parts. From left to right: 810 drip tip, top cap, a metal rail onto which we screw the top cap, airflow control ring, 2ml glass, and the 3-in-1 Chamber, which is the RTA glass, air intake, and filling port all in one, connected by the chimney.
Using the well-known method, we place one of the glasses from the bottom. The upper O-ring, visible in the picture below, doesn’t hold very strongly, making glass replacement extremely simple. Literally, you touch it and it falls off… But no worries, the deck will hold it in place anyway. When assembled, it’s neither wobbly nor loose.
Here we can see the airflow control ring, which has a groove inside that matches a small protruding metal part on the outside of the Chamber. With these, we can open or close the airflow to the stop, steplessly. But this is a completely standard method; 80% of tanks use this solution for airflow. I must note that some air still passes through when it’s closed.
We’ve reached the interesting part. Here is the rail, which we can remove with a single motion and put back just as easily. This solution makes cleaning and maintenance easier. It’s useful not only for washing but also when some liquid, condensation, or dirt gets underneath. We unscrew the top cap, pull off the rail, clean it, and everything goes back in place. I disassembled and cleaned it with a half-full tank, and there was no gurgling, which is a huge plus for this design!
Reinstalling the rail requires some attention, because if we put it back incorrectly, the arrow on the top cap indicating the opening direction will point in the opposite direction. This means we won’t be able to open it in the direction of the arrow, but on the opposite side of the top cap. I don’t think this is a major problem, as it can be fixed in a few seconds if we accidentally put it back wrong.
On the top of the Chamber, on the side opposite the filling port, we can see a small hole, which we only encounter during refilling if we look into the drip tip. The drip tip is not on in this picture so that the subject of our image is clearer. This small hole has a very useful function. It helps air escape from the tank more easily while we are filling it with liquid. This is great because the DR Solo has only one filling port, so the liquid doesn’t bubble back up next to the bottle’s nozzle while it’s trying to push air out.
Here is the 810 drip tip. As small as it is, it’s very comfortable to use. This is thanks to the fact that it has almost no straight surface; both the outer and inner rims are rounded in a wide arc.
With the straight glass, the capacity is 2ml, and with the bubble glass, it’s 4ml. I mostly used the latter, as with active use, the tank ran out in about 1 hour with the straight glass.
Here we can see the 24mm diameter postless deck, but due to the grooves on its sides, its actual diameter will be 25.5mm. Therefore, we won’t be able to put it on an SBS mod that accepts a 24mm tank, and on a mod that accepts a precisely 24mm tank, the grooves will hang over. It has 4 fastening points, so no matter which way the coil legs are oriented, it won’t cause problems during building. I placed the Chamber next to it to show that the deck needs to be seated in the RTA glass, and then we screw it into place.
The RTA glass is approximately 1.3cm deep in the middle, or tall, as you prefer, and about 1cm at the edges. Since we need to account for the inner curve visible in the picture below, I took the size of the lowest point of the bell as a basis, which is 1cm. Subtracting the 4mm height of the deck from this, we are left with 6mm for the coil. So, after inserting the built deck with a coil having 5mm legs, at a 2.5mm inner diameter, the coil will extend about 3.5mm, and at a 3mm inner diameter, it will extend about 4mm. Also, I haven’t even calculated the coil’s thickness! Therefore, we should definitely not cut coil legs longer than 5mm, otherwise, it might reach the top of the bell and cause a short circuit monster! However, we should also not cut legs shorter than 5mm, otherwise, it might touch the postless deck, which will also summon the short circuit monster! This is very important, as the build falls into the decidedly sub-ohm category. If it shorts out at 0.2 ohms or lower, it’s a huge problem! Therefore, pay close attention to the length of the legs! Otherwise, the remaining 2-2.5mm above the coil is exactly what’s needed for good airflow. Not to mention, the postless deck itself is 1cm wide on the sides, from which we need to subtract 1mm on each side because the build deck connects into the bell, so the shoulders of the bell sit on the sides of the deck, leaving us with 8mm in width. The coil will easily take up about 3-4mm of this, and the remaining 2mm on each side is needed for good airflow. Thanks to the side honeycomb airflow, which is the many small holes in the picture, the DR Solo features silky flavors. In addition, the coil also receives air from below, as indicated by the larger holes visible on the bottom part of the RTA glass.
Let’s build it!On my first build, I finally got to try the SS316L Coilogy Tri-Core Fused Clapton, whose inner strands are 28ga thick, and the outer wire is 38ga thick. It will be listed on the spool as 3-28/38. I wrapped 5 wraps around a 2.5mm inner diameter and, of course, cut the legs to 5mm. This leaves approximately 1-1.5mm between the bottom airflow inlet and the coil. Based on the inner diameter and wire thickness, the coil will be roughly 3.5-4mm high, which is important to avoid short circuits!
Here you can clearly see how much space the air will have to circulate around the coil. It is still a DL setup, so it needs to cool down properly. In my opinion, the internal dimensions of the RTA chamber are also designed so that we cannot accidentally fit too large a coil that would obstruct the airflow.
Since I wrapped it on a 2.5mm inner diameter, 2.5mm diameter BP Mods cotton is suitable. The setup doesn’t look small anymore. After a gentle fluffing, it went straight into the groove. It just reached the bottom but didn’t spread out.
The second build was done with the same SS316L Coilogy Tri-Core Fused Clapton, just 4 wraps around a 3mm inner diameter. I cut the legs to 5mm, but somehow I managed to cut or position one leg incorrectly. I haven’t decided which one yet… 
This caused the coil to sit a bit lower, but I left it like that because it didn’t touch the deck.
Here you can clearly see that it sagged. Since one side of the coil fit properly, I left it in. I’ll note that it’s still in and I’m using it as I write this. My clumsiness caused no issues, and the coil didn’t touch anything. There was also plenty of space left for airflow on the sides.
For this one, I used Canna Cotton, which, being DL cotton, is denser than BP Mods. It also just reached the bottom but didn’t spread out. However, it took longer to break in completely, which happened after vaping about half to three-quarters of a tank of liquid.
As you can see in the last few pictures, it was essential not to use it in practice with the dual-battery Ijoy Captain PD1865. Even though it’s just a single coil, there’s too much metal, so it wouldn’t perform below 30 watts. The coil wrapped on the 2.5mm inner diameter required 37 watts, and the one on the 3mm inner diameter required 33 watts. This striking difference in power requirement was caused by the one-wrap difference between the builds. Now, let’s get to the main point. The experience!
Experience Report
I don’t think I can fault the material usage of the DR Solo. It’s a heavy and solid piece that can serve its owner for years, making it difficult to get a grip on. I was a bit wary of the paintwork, but there was no sign of it wanting to peel off, even though this tank took a beating. The threads feel slightly loose for the first 1-2 turns, but they hold well when fully screwed in, both at the top cap and the deck. None of the parts loosened during use. In contrast, the grub screws are much better aligned with the holes. Once you’ve secured the coil, it stays firmly in place after the first few turns, making it difficult to move. Of course, it’s not impossible, it just requires more force. It’s still advisable to tighten the screws completely so that they don’t touch the wall of the RTA chamber. Filling is quick and easy. The liquid doesn’t bubble up next to the bottle nozzle, so we can refill it more confidently. The manufacturer describes the slide-open top cap solution as providing easy and fast refilling. Almost too much so. To be honest, the difficulty in finding a grip wasn’t because of the material, which is excellent, and that’s not what bothered me. It was just one tiny thing that prevented the DR Solo from getting a perfect score from me! That thing is the aforementioned top cap. I find it too loose. I could accept the threads, because when I screwed them all the way in, they stayed put! Moreover, because they were slightly loose, both threaded parts caught easily, so that’s a good thing. But the top cap… HellVape says the tank is easy to refill. Because it’s a simple push-style top cap! You get it? A simple push is enough, they say, to make refilling even easier, and of course faster, as if it were a requirement to refill quickly, immediately! Because the manufacturer says this is important. However! If I look at it from a different perspective, I got what they promised. A simple push is enough, and it really is… The product delivers on this, so I don’t know why I’m complaining. Oh, but I know. Because it opened twice in my pants pocket. And it didn’t even need a simple push. Despite this, I don’t think it’s a flaw, but rather what the manufacturer promised, and what we get with the DR Solo. The solution is simple: just store it somewhere where nothing touches the side indicated by the arrow on the top cap, or presses against it, causing it to open. By the way, if the problem occurs and the chamber is flooded with liquid, the situation is easily manageable. Just close the top cap again, turn the tank upside down, let the liquid in the chamber drip out, and after wiping the drip tip, after a few puffs, when the excess liquid has evaporated, we can use it again. This whole procedure takes about two minutes. It’s hard to say whether this is a good or bad thing. One thing is for sure, the top cap didn’t open every single moment, and it didn’t happen twice on the same day. So, it held up reasonably well. Therefore, anyone who can live with this simple push-style top cap will have no complaints about the DR Solo!
It requires a dual-battery mod, or at least a single 21700 to last the day. With two batteries, my not-so-new brown LGs lasted exactly two days. I used 5 wraps on the 2.5mm inner diameter coil so as not to get too close to a short. Although the manufacturer’s photos show 6 wraps on the wire, I still want to live, so… Even so, the result was 0.2 ohms, which I grumbled about, but you can’t get a higher ohm reading with such thick wire. The 4 wraps on the 3mm inner diameter also resulted in only 0.19 ohms. In fact, using it around 0.2 ohms didn’t cause any problems, and I’m sure I’m just overthinking it, but physics doesn’t joke around. Despite these numbers, it’s incredible that I managed to stay between 33-37 watts with a Tri-Core wire that literally devours liquid and power. I recommend BP Mods cotton more for the DR Solo, as it provides pure flavors that we don’t have to wait for. Canna Cotton was a bit slower, even though the wicking wasn’t restricted. Regarding cotton wicking, we’re not talking about a huge channel, but perhaps it handles cotton calibrated for 2.5mm coils a bit better, but this doesn’t mean it has problems with 3mm diameter ones; it just took a bit longer to break in, which is also not a big deal, and might be characteristic of the cotton itself. But of course, everyone has their own tried-and-true DL cotton with which I’m sure you’ll have just as great an experience as I did. In short, with either inner diameter, we can work, because the DR Solo will stand the test of time, even with a more powerful wire than I used!In terms of flavor, it’s fantastic! It’s a HellVape product, so I didn’t expect anything else, or worse! I would rather recommend it for dessert and fruity flavors; I didn’t even try it with tobacco because I thought it wouldn’t suit this tank. The 2ml tank is capable of emptying in about 1 hour if we don’t take breaks from vaping. With the 4ml tank, we can vaporize enough liquid for 2, at most 3 hours. That’s why we don’t leave the house without liquid if the DR Solo accompanies us on our journey. The vapor production is also not weak. It’s almost palpable and dense, and of course, a lot! Simply perfect! There’s no TH, but that didn’t surprise me. This is not typical for DL tanks. With the air intake quarter and half open, I covered almost any sized room in fog with two puffs. However, for fully open airflow, neither 33 nor 37 watts will be enough. If someone wants to max out the tank, they should indeed only put a dual-battery mod underneath it, because with full airflow, 45-55 watts will be the minimum requirement for any coil. For me, the fully open airflow was already too much.
In conclusion, the HellVape Dead Rabbit Solo RTA is a relatively small tank, and yet it has so much power, it’s incredible! If I don’t count the simple push-style top cap as a negative, because that’s what the manufacturer promised, and that’s what we get, then this tank is a genius, a must-have for every DL fan!
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