Heyo.
Does anyone happen to have experience with the Wotofo Profile?
My problem would be that after changing the mesh coil and firing, after 2-3 days my cotton starts to discolor to this extent.
I guess the discoloration is where the main flavor comes from. Which wouldn’t be a problem.
However, if I dry fire it, you can see that the mesh coil heats up very unevenly.
Not to mention, my juice randomly gets a burnt, shitty taste.
Generally, the stuff lasts 2-3 weeks. Right now, for example, I’ve been vaping a Biggy Cactus for 3 days.. Which is indeed quite sweet, but I don’t think it should have a charcoal flavor after 600 puffs. So, any ideas what could be causing this, what should I do differently. Anything? 
I’m also attaching a few really high-quality pictures taken with an intercom, so you know what I’m talking about.
Thanks 
Hi, I don’t have personal experience with this, but I’ve copied your comment to Gilbert and he gave some tips. I hope this helps until an experienced user comes along. Best regards 
Hi Angel31! 
I welcome the questioner too, although I see the topic has already popped up on the forum as well. I’ve reviewed the pictures and the description, and I have a few tips because this phenomenon is a typical “mesh disease”, but luckily it’s curable. 
The pictures show that the cotton has been brutally burned and darkened at one point. This can mean two things: either the mesh sheet doesn’t properly touch the cotton at one point (hotspot), or the liquid supply (wicking) is intermittent in that area.
Here are the points worth checking:
1. The most important: Cotton density
With mesh, the golden rule is: you need more cotton than you think. If the cotton doesn’t press against the mesh sheet over its entire surface, the metal overheats there and burns the cotton in moments (this is the source of ‘char flavour’).
- Tip: For the Wotofo Profile, it’s worth using the standard 6mm cotton, or if you use something else, pack it very densely. The cotton should almost “stretch” under the sheet.
2. Checking the spring-loaded ceramic post
In the Profile, there’s a spring-loaded element under the cotton that theoretically pushes it up against the mesh.
- Source of error: If this spring is weak, or the cotton gets jammed at the edges and doesn’t let the post rise, a gap will form.
- Solution: Check that the post moves freely, and don’t skimp on cotton in the middle.
3. That uneven heating…
If it doesn’t glow evenly from the center outwards when heated dry, it can mean two things:
- Contamination: Some grease from your finger or manufacturing residue remains. (It’s always worth dry-burning the mesh at low wattage – around 10-15W – after installation).
- Fixing: The ends of the mesh sheet aren’t properly, parallelly secured in the clamps. If one side is crooked, the resistance won’t be uniform.
4. The “Biggy Cactus” and the gunk
Sweet liquids (like cactus flavors often are) tend to bake onto the mesh faster. After 600 puffs, 3 days of gunk is unfortunately not rare with a sweet liquid, but such a drastically one-sided browning points more towards poor contact, not just the liquid.
In summary, what I recommend to the questioner:
- Remove the old setup, clean the deck.
- Install a new mesh sheet, ensuring it stands perfectly parallel.
- Dry-burn it at low wattage (around 15W) to see if it’s nicely even.
- When wicking, use a thicker strip, and don’t be afraid to “stuff” it under the sheet. Cut the edges at a 45-degree angle to maintain good liquid supply.
If there are still problems, it’s worth checking out this topic: Profile RDTA uncertainty, where the guys have already gone through similar ordeals. (Warning, the topic is older than 1 year, but physics hasn’t changed much since then! )
I hope I’ve helped you get started a bit! If you have more questions or new “doorbell camera” photos, feel free to share them! 
Hi,
although I don’t have this kind of RDTA either, regarding mesh, my first idea would also be that the cotton is loose/insufficient under the mesh, it’s not evenly tensioned everywhere against it. But you write that the mesh sheet doesn’t heat up evenly even during firing, I think this might be more of a contact problem, perhaps Gilbert’s ideas might work (thorough disassembly, rinsing, cleaning, and/or the mesh sheet being clamped in parallel).
I found a thread about chain vaping dry hits (liquid supply issue), I’ll leave it here as an interesting find
“the one end of each SS rope rods IIRC were welded on the ends. I installed my SS rope rods with the welded ends into the tank section. The other (not welded ends) were what was touching the cotton wick.”
“If I remember correctly, one end of each stainless steel rope rod was welded. I installed the stainless steel rope rods with the welded ends into the tank section. The other (unwelded) ends were touching the cotton wick.”
Even if it’s not the cotton that’s insufficient from the start. It collapsed, so it’s not tight. I would really check its spring mechanism, though it only happened once until now that mine didn’t push it up enough. The factory-sized wicks are 3-4 mm longer than what I usually cut. Trim them a little. I don’t tuck the cotton under the plate, but fold it over.
A te megoldásod alapján csűröm-csavarom. Szóval elviekben a vattazas pacek. Kis tömzsi mindig.
Így szoktam berakni én is, szóval továbbra is tanácstalan vagyok. 
Szerintem nincs szép félkör íve a mesh lapnak. Ahol nem színeződött el a vatta ott vagy nem ér hozzá a mesh laphoz, vagy sokkal lazábban mint ott ahol barna. Tehát nem mindenhol egyenletes az érintkezés. Ha szép az ív, akkor a hengeres, megfelelő méretű és tömörségű vattacsík szépen egyenletesen érintkezik a mesh lappal. Vagy mint ahogy írtad, nem egyenletesen izzik a mesh lap. Nincs megtörve a meshlap?
Nekem laposnak tűnik!
Azt hiszem ez az előre gyártott szelvényes végű lapka . Lehet hogy a készlet 5-10db nem egyletesen lett elforasztva a vége a gyárban és ezért nem izzik egyenletesen . Ahogy a sebész mondja vágjunk bele.
I also suspect a contact error… but I definitely couldn’t intentionally create such a regular, diagonal discoloration 
Is it not possible that the cotton touches the inner wall of the “chimney” in the brownish area?
It happened a few times with RDAs, maybe it’s the same here.
I’ll take it apart in the morning, then I’ll check it. Thanks for the
As-is, there was no problem. It glowed evenly from the inside out. 
I think it’s like this for me 3 out of 5 times 
But, by the way, it’s not ruled out. Next time I’ll