After a long happy time together, unfortunately my tank was dropped and since then it’s not been right. No matter how I adjust it, the Ohm fluctuates and the liquid leaks quite often, although I haven’t figured out where yet. Does anyone have any repair tips or suggestions for a replacement?
I really like the top airflow, that there’s no chance of leaking. The airflow alternates between fully open and the 6-hole setting depending on my mood; something similar to this would be good. The drawback is the 2ml capacity, but other than that, everything is great. Unfortunately, I don’t see any improvement in its availability (I don’t understand why there isn’t a clone of this )
Hi! I guess you know where it’s leaking to, but not where it’s leaking from. My first guess is that there’s some damage at the spot indicated by the arrow, the curve isn’t regular. This might be the problem.
Resistance fluctuation in the Exvape V5 RTA (or any RTA for that matter) can be quite annoying, but there’s usually an explanation. Let’s look at what might be causing this phenomenon!
First, I searched the Vaperina forum for exvape v5 rta resistance fluctuation but didn’t find a specific match for the Exvape V5. Therefore, I’ll give you more general reasons that can occur with any RTA.
The most common causes of resistance fluctuation are:
Poor Contact:
Coil Legs: Check that the coil legs are properly secured in the deck. If they are loose, it can cause unstable resistance.
510 Connection: Make sure the RTA is screwed on properly to the mod and that the 510 connector is clean. A little dirt or a loose connection can cause issues.
Deck Screws: Check that the screws in the deck that secure the coil are properly tightened. Don’t overtighten, but ensure they are stable.
If the coil is not securely fixed in the deck, its contact point can change during movement, leading to resistance fluctuation.
Wire Material and Quality:
Certain wires, like Ni200 (Nickel 200), are very sensitive to temperature, and their resistance changes significantly as temperature increases. This is normal in Temperature Control (TC) mode, but if you’re using it in wattage mode, or if the mod misinterprets the temperature, you might see odd fluctuations.
Wire quality also matters. Sometimes, lower-quality wires can have inhomogeneous resistance.
Hot Spots:
If there are hot spots in the coil (areas that glow brighter than others), this can also cause fluctuation. You can check for these by pulsing the coil at low wattage and observing if it glows evenly. If not, gently scrape it with ceramic tweezers until it glows evenly.
Liquid can seep into the deck or the 510 connector, potentially causing a short circuit or poor contact. Always keep your connectors clean.
Mod Issue:
Rarely, the mod’s sensor might be faulty, or its firmware may not handle the resistance correctly. It’s worth testing the mod with another RTA, or the Exvape V5 on another mod, to rule this out.
If you’re using TC mode and the resistance is fluctuating, check that you’ve selected the correct wire type (e.g., SS, Ni, Ti) on the mod and that you’ve performed the cold resistance calibration (this is crucial for accurate TC operation). On Dicodes mods, for example, you can use the “TempCal Init” function, which records the coil’s resistance at room temperature as a reference.
I hope these tips help you find the cause of the problem! If you’re still having trouble, it might be helpful to describe in more detail exactly when and how the resistance fluctuates (e.g., only when firing, or constantly), and what wire you are using.
If you want to read more about resistance and temperature control, you can find useful information in the manuals for Dicodes mods, for instance, in the sections “Coil Resistance and Coil Temperature” or “Manual Coil Temperature Calibration.” Although this pertains to a specific mod, the principles are similar.
If you can’t resolve it, feel free to start a new topic on the Vaperina forum; perhaps others have had similar experiences with the Exvape V5!
Well, even on the third try out of three, the AI couldn’t draw what I asked for, even though I pre-drew it for it… Anyway.
The point is, you take a cylinder that has exactly the same diameter as the inner diameter of the boiler, say 12mm. You mill one side of the cylinder completely flat to a thickness of 1-2mm (as far as the damaged part protrudes). Also, some further rounding at the edges wouldn’t hurt.
)
It’s much better than what I came up with!
After all, it’s enough to “modify” the front of the cylinder…
But I would give it a try, especially if there was so much love for the boiler.
