Aromizer plus v2 and arcfox mod

Hi everyone!

When building the Aromizer Plus V2 mesh deck, BPMODS shows the correct resistance, but when I screw it into the Arcfox, it often detects a value above 1 ohm or 0.7, which is far from the 0.3 it should be. The detected resistance changes frequently and without reason. If it detects a value above 1 ohm, it shows a short circuit on the first press; if it reads it as, for example, 0.5 ohms, there is no short circuit, and it can be used at the appropriate wattage until it changes again :smiley: . With my Profile RDTA, it detects the same reading that BPMODS showed. Could the Aromizer not be compatible with this Smok Arcfox? If I don’t build the mesh deck, this doesn’t happen, which is why I don’t understand this whole thing :smiley:

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Hi!

Although I don’t know the mod or the RTA, I think the phenomenon points to a contact error; that’s when the measured resistance of the RTA usually jumps and/or increases. Of course, in rare cases the mod might be faulty, but you wrote that it works fine with the Profile RDTA.

The contact error could be between the mod and RTA, or in the RTA deck; at least those two cases have occurred for me.

In the first case, the positive contact of the mod might be slightly shorter than average. Thus, if the 510 pin on the RTA doesn’t protrude much (it’s almost flush with the outer 510 threading), even if you screw it on properly, there won’t be proper contact. E.g., if you use a silicone pad between the RTA and the mod, try without it.

In the second case, the RTA’s 510 pin might not be tightened sufficiently, or there might be an issue with the wire/mesh clamping.

I am only guessing because your case is quite interesting.

Does it still show the correct value when you have put on the top part as well, when the RTA is completely assembled? I’m thinking something might shift while you screw on the barrel.

Is there a difference in how far the RTA 510 pin protrudes between a mesh build and a wire build?

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Thank you for your answer!

I unscrewed the Mesh deck, and on the part of the 510 pin that can be unscrewed from the bottom, there was a rubber or I don’t know what; I took it off and now it’s perfect :DDD WTF :smiley:

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But that wasn’t there for nothing.

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And there is no short circuit because of this? That is a separation, insulation between the + and - poles, if I know correctly. :thinking:

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Well, it’s not there, but I still have what I took off, I can put it back if necessary, I just don’t understand why it caused a problem. Maybe it just needs to be replaced again?

That’s a problem because then I’m toast :smiley:

Send me a picture of it! :wink:

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When you removed the 510 pin, was it tightened, or could you unscrew it easily? It could also be that the positive pin was just loosely in place, and now after removing the rubber thingamajig, you tightened it properly. If that is a rubber ring, then I am also suspicious, it wasn’t there by accident (to prevent short circuits)

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As soon as there are one or two pictures, we will find out more.
The “faulty” By-Ka V9 also met this fate recently.
:wink: :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

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