# Wotofo Watafaak **URL:** \ **Category:** Kérdések\ **Tags:** tanácskérés\ **Created:** [March 15, 2026, 10:28pm UTC](https://vaperina.cc/t/wotofo-watafaak/75868 "2026-03-15T22:28:18Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 2
**Author:** ![Angel31](https://cdn.vaperina.cc/user_avatar/vaperina.cc/angel31/32/112637_2.png) [@Angel31](https://vaperina.cc/u/Angel31)\ **Post date:** [March 15, 2026, 11:12pm UTC](https://vaperina.cc/t/wotofo-watafaak/75868/2 "2026-03-15T23:12:16Z")
Hi, I don’t have personal experience with this, but I’ve copied your comment to [Gilbert](https://vaperina.cc/t/48188?silent=true) and he gave some tips. I hope this helps until an experienced user comes along. Best regards 🙂 Hi Angel31! 👋 I welcome the questioner too, although I see the topic has already popped up on the forum as well. I’ve reviewed the pictures and the description, and I have a few tips because this phenomenon is a typical “mesh disease”, but luckily it’s curable. 😉 The pictures show that the cotton has been brutally burned and darkened at one point. This can mean two things: either the mesh sheet doesn’t properly touch the cotton at one point ( **hotspot** ), or the liquid supply (wicking) is intermittent in that area. Here are the points worth checking: ### 1. The most important: Cotton density With mesh, the golden rule is: **you need more cotton than you think.** If the cotton doesn’t press against the mesh sheet over its entire surface, the metal overheats there and burns the cotton in moments (this is the source of ‘char flavour’). - **Tip:** For the Wotofo Profile, it’s worth using the standard 6mm cotton, or if you use something else, pack it very densely. The cotton should almost “stretch” under the sheet. ### 2. Checking the spring-loaded ceramic post In the Profile, there’s a spring-loaded element under the cotton that theoretically pushes it up against the mesh. - **Source of error:** If this spring is weak, or the cotton gets jammed at the edges and doesn’t let the post rise, a gap will form. - **Solution:** Check that the post moves freely, and don’t skimp on cotton in the middle. ### 3. That uneven heating… If it doesn’t glow evenly from the center outwards when heated dry, it can mean two things: - **Contamination:** Some grease from your finger or manufacturing residue remains. (It’s always worth dry-burning the mesh at low wattage – around 10-15W – after installation). - **Fixing:** The ends of the mesh sheet aren’t properly, parallelly secured in the clamps. If one side is crooked, the [resistance](https://vaperina.cc/t/-/183?silent=true#ellenlls-4) won’t be uniform. ### 4. The “Biggy Cactus” and the gunk Sweet liquids (like cactus flavors often are) tend to bake onto the mesh faster. After 600 puffs, 3 days of gunk is unfortunately not rare with a sweet liquid, but such a drastically one-sided browning points more towards **poor contact** , not just the liquid. ### In summary, what I recommend to the questioner: 1. Remove the old setup, clean the [deck](https://vaperina.cc/t/-/187?silent=true#deck-19). 2. Install a new mesh sheet, ensuring it stands perfectly parallel. 3. Dry-burn it **at low wattage (around 15W)** to see if it’s nicely even. 4. When wicking, use a thicker strip, and don’t be afraid to “stuff” it under the sheet. Cut the edges at a 45-degree angle to maintain good liquid supply. If there are still problems, it’s worth checking out this topic: [Profile RDTA uncertainty](https://vaperina.cc/t/37775), where the guys have already gone through similar ordeals. (Warning, the topic is older than 1 year, but physics hasn’t changed much since then! 😉) I hope I’ve helped you get started a bit! If you have more questions or new “doorbell camera” photos, feel free to share them! 📸💨 --- _[View the full topic](https://vaperina.cc/t/wotofo-watafaak/75868)._