I’m bringing you the first review of the year a bit late, but at least something exciting and beautiful has finally come into my possession from the HealthCabin webshop. It’s still quite new on the market, not many reviews are available for it, so I’m very happy that this can be the next test subject, which is none other than the Lost Vape Centaurus G80 AIO! The front and back plastic covers immediately draw your eye to this beauty. The covers have wide holes, so the battery can ventilate properly at the back, and at the front, where the coil gets its air, it aids smooth and even airflow, in other words, it draws air as if there were nothing there. It’s an impressive piece on its own, but the icing on the cake is that it has a design that makes it compatible with all existing Boro tanks. Therefore, if you like the device but the tank equipped with the Centaurus Boro RBA won’t be your favorite, you can use it with any other Boro tank you prefer, giving you complete freedom! The device, made of zinc and aluminum alloy, has dimensions of 82.5 x 31.2 x 47.3mm, so it’s not a behemoth, but not too thin either. Its weight without the battery is 134g, making it comfortable to carry around anywhere. Of course, it’s also equipped with the usual protections: short-circuit, over-discharge, overcharge, overheat, and low voltage protection. Furthermore, the maximum puff time is 10 seconds. A slight surprise is that, unlike usual, it handles resistances between 0.12 and 2 Ohms, but I think this is more than sufficient, as going below 0.12 ohms is not worth it and is dangerous (though I think even 0.12 is quite dangerous), and going above 2 ohms is almost pointless. As its name suggests, it can go up to 80 Watts, starting from 5 Watts, so this is also within reasonable limits. All 5ml capacity Boro tanks are made of PCTG material, which is not surprising nowadays, although the original Boro tanks were made of borosilicate glass, but we have to move with the times, and PCTG is much lighter anyway.
As for the colors, I’m sure everyone will find something they like among the 6 variations, which are black, grey, gunmetal, pink, blue, and blue-pink gradient. All colors are eye-catching, but personally, I tend to stick to grey, which is perhaps my favorite from the Centaurus G80 lineup. If there were a red one, I would have been happy, so I’ll stick with grey, which looks even better in person than in the pictures. This might be too much for an introduction, so let’s get started!
Lost Vape Centaurus G80 AIO Review
Box Contents and Getting to Know the Device
The G80 AIO comes with quite generous accessories. The device is equipped with the UB Boro tank by default, so next to it, you’ll find the Boro tank with the RBA, and directly below that, 2 UB Ultra coils, so the manufacturer caters to Boro tank lovers who prefer coils. We also find 2 drip tips in the box, one suitable for MTL to RDL vaping, and a wider one for RDL to DL vaping. Of course, there’s a bag of spare O-rings, 2 spare screws, 3 AirPins (one of which is in the RBA), a small blue (evergreen) screwdriver, and a metal key for the top nut where the drip tip connects. Additionally, there’s another chimney for the RBA if you want to transfer it to another Boro tank, and a 510-RBA adapter so you can build the RBA on another box mod. Naturally, the USB cable, Warranty Card, and user manuals are also included, one for the RBA Boro and one for the device.
When we remove the front and back magnetic plastic covers, we don’t find anything extraordinary, just the fire button at the front, the 0.42" OLED display, and finally, the navigation buttons at the bottom. The rear plastic cover hides the battery, which, in a not-so-unusual way, must be inserted upside down because the current travels a shorter path this way, resulting in a faster fire button response time. The positive battery contact at the bottom is spring-loaded, so when inserting the battery, we have to press down the contact with the battery itself for it to fit into place.
Under the covers, there’s nothing on the sides either, just the Lost Vape logo on the right side and the Centaurus G80 inscription on the left. It’s immediately obvious at first glance that the tank needs to be slid sideways to remove it, of course, only after loosening the top nut that holds it in place.
At the top of the device is the slotted nut that accommodates the drip tip and also secures the Boro tank. Next to it is the Centaurus logo; there’s nothing else here. At the bottom, above the Designed by Lost Vape inscription, there are some pictograms, plus the USB-C port, which allows the G80 to charge the battery at 5V/1.85A, but as usual, I’d like to point out that this is not recommended! Batteries should only be charged in an external charger!
Here we can see the much-mentioned slotted nut again, which we can loosen with the metal key shown in the picture. One or two turns are not enough to release the Boro tank; you need to unscrew the nut at least three-quarters of the way to remove the Boro.
Since we’re talking about the nut and I mentioned that drip tips fit into it, let’s discuss that a bit. We can insert the narrower drip tip that comes with the device, or besides that, you can actually replace it with any other 510 drip tip. The wider drip tip has a slightly different design, although this is not new in the world of Boros. To increase the inner diameter of the drip tip, they essentially took another slotted nut and attached a drip tip to it, so the drip tip gets the inner diameter of the nut, which is much wider than the other one. So, this can be used for DL vaping if you feel inclined. What’s almost immediately noticeable when trying out the drip tips is that the wider one is metal, making it heavier and colder than usual. The narrower one is likely Delrin because it doesn’t cool down as much in the cold as plain plastic. Although both are comfortable, I preferred the narrower one because, firstly, I wasn’t using the device for DL, and secondly, as I mentioned, it didn’t get cold outside.
The UB Boro tank is installed in the device by default, which was one of the first things I removed. Since I’ve had the chance to use the UB Boro tank and UB coils before, I thought we could jump to the more important parts. I will mention that all UB coils have excellent flavor reproduction, and the vapor production is simply perfect. Not to mention, the box contains the 0.2 Ohm M7 Coil and the 0.15 Ohm M8 Coil. Their lifespan is also outstanding, so it’s worth trying them out for anyone who decides to get the Lost Vape Centaurus G80!
Once we’ve removed the tank, it’s worth pausing for a moment at the dual spring connector. The right one will be the negative contact, as something will always press it down. This means that the airflow adjustment ring of the UB Boro tank, without an atomizer, only holds this down, thus keeping the circuit open. If we place the UB Boro tank into the device with an atomizer, then the vaporization is activated through the left positive contact. It’s worth noting here that the AirPin in the RBA also presses down the left positive contact, but for those who prefer it more airy than the 3mm AirPin, it’s still worth including the AirPin itself, as its function is not only to press the contact and get power to the coil but also to hold the RBA together.
The G80 comes with a total of 3 AirPins, which have internal holes of exactly 1, 2, and 3mm. The 3mm one is pre-installed in the RBA and has an O-ring on it, but the other two AirPins do not. Therefore, it’s advisable to transfer it if you’re not using the 3mm one, because without an O-ring, the liquid’s vapor would condense much more, not to mention that liquid could even find its way towards the AirPin. AirPins cannot be changed mid-use, as they hold the entire RBA together. It’s best to change them either when empty (without a coil) or before soaking the cotton, when we still have the opportunity to hold the RBA’s positive contact in place, as the upper part of the AirPin screws into it. So, if one of the AirPins is missing, it’s unfortunately unusable. For me, this is a bit disappointing, as it could be solved so that the positive post remains in place even without the AirPin. But since the issue can be overcome, and it’s like this from the factory, I won’t list it as a negative, although they really could have come up with something for this.
Here we can see the 510-RBA adapter, which we first screw onto the mod, and then screw the RBA into it. It must be used for every build, as without it, it’s quite tricky to grip and coil that tiny RBA, although I’ve managed it with the B80, and that’s precisely why I’m writing that it’s quite difficult to coil without the adapter, so don’t put it far away! Well, the two lower solid pins, I honestly have no idea where or what they are for! I tried them in a few places where I thought they would fit, but I was wrong. They simply don’t fit anywhere; they are too small for everything. At first, I thought they were spare parts for the adapter (which is why they were in the picture), but it quickly became clear that the pin in the adapter is a pin-type connector into which the AirPin screws along with the RBA. So, this will be a good little riddle. If anyone knows the solution, I’m eagerly awaiting it in the comments!
We’ve reached the RBA, which is also much talked about. The build deck itself follows a very simple fastening principle. We need to secure the coil under one grub screw in each post, tighten the screws, then cut the legs, bend them slightly so they don’t touch the side of the chamber, and we’re done. There’s plenty of space for the coil sideways. However, if we place the coil jig on the deck, the bottom of the coil might touch the airflow inlet. Therefore, always check the distance between the coil and the airflow inlet. Don’t raise the coil too high, so it doesn’t touch the chamber, meaning the space for positioning the coil is as much as the right wall shown in the picture. By the way, this isn’t as little as it looks, especially with round wire, but for those working with MTL Clapton, it will be noticeable how much space there actually is in the RBA.
We’ve looked at all the accessories and every part of the device, so nothing is left but to dive into the G80 a bit. Don’t look for a menu system; there isn’t one! Although it does its job perfectly this way. What it does have, and what is most important, are the 2 modes, i.e., Dual-Mode. This consists of a mode for the coil tank, which we see in the upper part of the picture, and an RBA mode for the RBA, which we see in the lower part of the picture and is indicated by a white square with an R in it, suggesting we should preferably use it only with the RBA. We can switch between the 2 modes with 3 quick button presses. When switching between modes, regardless of which one to which, it automatically associates a Watt value with the measured, or rather, re-measured resistance. This isn’t bad, but considering the airflow of the AirPins, the Watt value associated with my preferred resistance of around 1 ohm or slightly above would only be workable with the 1mm AirPin at most. So, you can’t completely rely on it, but at least it tries. The G80 isn’t rich in button combinations; besides switching Dual-Mode, we can only lock the bottom 2 navigation buttons by holding the fire button and the plus button for 3 seconds. Since it doesn’t lock the fire button, it’s almost pointless to use, as there’s already a plastic cover that prevents the buttons from being pressed, but this is a software characteristic, so it was a waste of words. Besides this, of course, we can turn the device on and off with 5 quick button presses. That’s it. It doesn’t do anything else, but it does this well.
My first coil was made with 7 wraps of Kanthal on a 2.5mm inner diameter, using BP Mods cotton. I’ve become quite lazy lately, so naturally, the BP Mods cotton diameter is also 2.5mm, meaning I didn’t have much to do with it. The cotton didn’t get stuck in the wicking, so it proved to be a good choice. It’s definitely worth fluffing up the ends, because when we put them into the wicking channels, we unintentionally compress them a bit, and if they weren’t fluffed, they would compress even more, which wouldn’t be good for the juice flow due to the narrow channels.
For my second coil, I wound 7 wraps of Kanthal on a 3mm inner diameter, and this time I used Vapefly Cotton Cloud’s cotton, which has a 3mm diameter. Although it has a looser structure and is not as prone to compressing, I still fluffed it up. Since I wound it on a 3mm inner diameter, the Cotton Cloud’s compressed about the same as the BP Mods would in such a narrow channel.
I think the only thing left is to talk about how the device and the RBA performed during use. So, let’s get to that:
User Experience ReportThe build quality is outstanding, as expected from Lost Vape! The unibody casing couldn’t be anything but perfectly assembled! The covers are also exactly in place; even if I try to move them forcefully, they don’t slide, thanks to the high-quality and strong magnets. Neither rattles nor shakes. A huge thumbs up to Lost Vape for making the back cover attachable from any direction; the magnets won’t repel if you happen to put it on backwards, and the arrangement and orientation of the holes remain the same. If my information is correct, the covers are scratch-resistant. Unfortunately, this is not true, as I managed to scratch both covers in 1-2 places. They are more resistant than plain plastic, but unfortunately, they can still be scratched unintentionally. The device itself can be considered light, which compensates well for its size, and it also proved to be good and comfortable to hold. With an RBA and a full tank, it balances the battery weight quite well. I haven’t tried the UB Boro, but I suspect I would write the same about it. The nut is easy to tighten and loosen, requiring only minimal effort. When inserting both Boros, you need to be careful when tightening the nut, because if the tank is even slightly crooked inside, which can happen due to the contacts slightly lifting it, the tank will shift slightly to the right. If you then tighten it like that, you won’t be able to put on the front magnetic cover because the tank will stick out too much. But that’s no problem, because there’s a solution for that too. All you need to do is align the tank with the contacts before tightening the nut, press them with your hand, and only then screw in the nut. It’s easier to do than to describe, so I don’t think this is a groundbreaking problem. The buttons are solid, fixed, their click point is there everywhere, they don’t rattle, they are easy to press, in a word, they are comfortable to use. The Boro filling port could have been placed a little lower, as part of the rubber plug protrudes under the button. You can still open it, but since the inner part of the plug is understandably filled with liquid, it’s easy to smudge the area around the button. I find this a bit inconvenient, although it’s not groundbreaking either, it just bothered me a little at first.
Since the device only supports Dual-Mode, its use is not complicated at all. Switching between modes is smooth, and turning it on and off is quick. The 0.42" display shows the values perfectly and is sufficiently visible. We can increase or decrease the power in half-Watt increments; if we reach 80 Watts, the next button press will cycle back to the minimum, i.e., 5 Watts, as usual. As I mentioned, the bottom two navigation buttons can also be locked, and the method for this is also smooth, although I don’t see the point, as the cover protects against accidental presses anyway. It doesn’t lock the fire button, which would be important if, for example, we put it in a bag, so that nothing happens; for this, only a full shutdown helps, which can be done with 5 quick fire button presses. I have no complaints about the brightness; in my experience, it doesn’t hurt the eyes. I can only find one negative point regarding the display, but this might rather be a software bug, and that is the display of the battery charge. When changing batteries, it shows the level of the previous battery for about half a minute instead of the full charge. Then it displays it correctly, but it would be good if it didn’t make us believe for that half minute that the other battery is also completely drained. It treats the battery well otherwise; you can expect about 1.5, or rather close to 2 days of battery life with a wire coil around 1 Ohm. When used with an atomizer, this is significantly reduced because it drains the battery considerably below 0.3 Ohm. It also incorrectly indicates the last 20% of the battery. There are 5 bars in the battery display, meaning one disappears every 20%. However, it disappears too quickly for the first four bars. The battery is roughly at 40% when it already indicates only 20% with the last bar. At this point, there is still about 8 hours of battery life left, so this battery display is not well done at all, but despite this, the device is usable, and even lasts a very long time at around 1 Ohm, so the battery management itself is good, only the display didn’t work out. This way, we won’t know for sure when to change the battery when we only see the last bar on the display. Nevertheless, a good vaper never leaves home without a spare battery, but still…
The RBA is easy to build and not complicated to wick. We only need to pay attention to ensuring the holes are sufficiently covered by the cotton. Don’t forget, there are not only holes on the 2 sides of the RBA but also at the bottom on the 2 sides, so the cotton should spread well in front of the holes to avoid leaking, but don’t stuff it into the holes either, because you might achieve the opposite. It’s good that there are 4 feeding holes because since those holes are quite narrow, this design contributes to uninterrupted liquid supply. It’s not enough to cut the cotton at the bottom of the RBA; it should extend about 1cm so that it reaches everywhere. If there’s a little extra for buffer, that’s fine; it’s better to have more than less. If there’s extra, shape it to the sides of the coil. The heating is instantaneous, even with Kanthal, thus the entire coil vaporizes evenly; you don’t have to wait for the outer wraps. Of course, at very low Watt values, you might have to wait, but in this case, choose the smallest AirPin. I think the airflow is best with the 2mm AirPin. It somehow fits everything. The 1mm is too restrictive for me, but in terms of flavor, it’s where it should be. It also requires a narrower drip tip, because it’s not quite right with the narrow stock one. The 3mm AirPin is for builds that people usually call “what fits through the pipe.” A substantial MTL Clapton with the 3mm AirPin and a wider drip tip can be a mecca for DL users. Of course, there will be some air resistance, but it’s exactly what I find appealing about the 3mm AirPin. The flavor is perfect, almost surpassing the flavor experience of the Bishop and DR MTL 2. This means that the Centaurus Boro RBA is far ahead when it comes to flavor reproduction. The vapor production is, I think, average, but this can be compensated with some Wattage, of course, for those who wish. For my 1 Ohm build, I needed 12 Watts, and for the 1.4 Ohm build, 14.5 Watts. There might be some conflict here, so I would note that the higher resistance required more Wattage because it’s Kanthal. If we wind the same number of turns on a larger inner diameter with Kanthal, the heating surface increases along with the resistance, which also requires more energy. For both builds, the 2mm AirPin worked best, and I ended up sticking with it because with this setup, the Lost Vape Centaurus G80 became unbeatable for me! If only that stupid condensation wasn’t there. Sometimes I had to take it apart and wipe it. It’s not a big deal, but after a few (approx. 3) days, you can see something weeping under the tank and on the side of the cover, which needs to be wiped off, otherwise, it tells its friends, and there will be more and more of them.
I can’t really think of anything I had trouble getting used to, or anything that caused me significant annoyance. Of course, nothing is 100% perfect, so I can bring up 1-2 negatives for the G80 as well, but these are such small trifles that you can live with them because they don’t interfere with the overall experience. Before we list the pros and cons, I’ll preface this by saying that the list won’t be very extensive in this case, as we need to keep in mind that this is a device of utmost simplicity, and its quality is inversely proportional to its simplicity. It’s not top-notch in terms of features, but it easily beats others in quality! Let’s see!## Pros 
- Lightweight, good grip, excellent material quality. Weighing 134g without the battery, it’s considered lightweight in its category. It doesn’t become too heavy even with the battery, so I would describe it as lightweight in all respects. The textured grips are not uncomfortable at all; it’s good to hold, and its light weight only adds to that. The material quality is excellent! The zinc and aluminum alloy casing assures us of the product’s durability, which is also a trademark of Lost Vape.
- Easy to use. The few basic menu options it’s equipped with perfectly deliver the expected performance, and it’s extremely simple to use, making it a good choice for beginners, especially with the UB Boro tank.
- Strong magnets, solid buttons, durable plastic covers. The covers don’t shift or rattle when moved, so there’s no fear of them falling off at an unguarded moment. The buttons are also perfectly in place, none of them rattle, and their pressure point is found across the entire button, making them comfortable to use. The plastic casing can be considered durable; it won’t be easy to break or crush it at an unguarded moment, and it also greatly enhances the G80’s appearance.
- Accepts all Boro tanks. I believe this indicates open-mindedness on the manufacturer’s part, not minding if we use another manufacturer’s product with theirs. Lost Vape likely trusts the users’ taste, meaning sometimes you have to yield to customers, because forcing something on them never ends well. I’m glad we can have this level of freedom from Lost Vape!
- Easy rebuilding. The aforementioned simplicity also extends to the RBA. It has one of the simplest build decks, making both building and wicking easy. Although wicking is worth paying attention to, this is true for almost all rebuildables.
- Resistance handling within reasonable limits. I was slightly surprised that it handles resistance between 0.12 and 2 Ohms instead of the usual 0.1 to 3 Ohms, but I think this was a good decision by Lost Vape, as it places the usage within much more realistic and reasonable limits, which is still more than sufficient. Therefore, I think this feature deserves the User-Friendly Special Award!
Cons 
- Scratch-prone plastic covers. I mentioned that the plastic casing is durable, which is true because both parts are quite solid. However, what I want to address now is scratch resistance. The manufacturer promised they were made of scratch-resistant plastic, but unfortunately, I managed to scratch both covers. While this isn’t a huge problem, as everything scratches over time, if they promised it, it should be that way.
- Inaccurate battery level indication. This anomaly is perhaps the biggest issue. All other minor negatives are truly secondary, but the fact that it inaccurately indicates the battery charge is, in my opinion, not really acceptable. At least, it’s not acceptable until you get used to the fact that this device will never accurately show the battery’s real status, as at the last 20% indication, there’s still roughly double the charge left in the battery. This can be seen as a positive, as the last 20% lasts longer, but the truth is, the display is wrong. Furthermore, when changing the battery, it won’t show full for at least the first half minute, so don’t be surprised by this. However, it handles the battery well; I got about 1.5, almost 2 days of battery life with continuous and active use at around 1 Ohm resistance, so it’s not that bad, but for those who value accurate display, like myself, this won’t go unnoticed.
Finally, I think I can only write that although it’s not the smartest device on the market, the Dual-Mode delivers what it should and what we expect. The battery life is good, the vapor production is excellent, and the material quality is perfect. It’s a truly compact and lightweight AIO with a lot of potential! Yes, it has flaws, because nothing is 100%, just like almost nothing on this earth. But since we aren’t perfect either, I don’t think we necessarily have to give up on the Lost Vape Centaurus G80 because of a poorly functioning battery indicator! I would buy it in everyone’s place! Here you go!
Thank you for reading! Have a nice day! 
,de a Lost vape boro 
Kinga.
Köszönöm, hogy elolvastad. 
Köszönöm, hogy elolvasod, elolvastad! 
Köszönöm, hogy elolvastad! 
B80 is volt nálam, de nem rémlik ilyen jellegű gond. 
és sajnos bejött.