Well, this is my haul for today, I’m not complaining 
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I would test that too.
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I even won something with a 1.6W machine back in 2014. I think I milled all its parts in 6 hours at my workplace 
on a nice Sunday. Surprisingly versatile stuff.
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A quite delicious bourbon variety. Slightly orangey, slightly honeyed, and with a
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Yes yes. I also have a multi-version in my plans. It’s just
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Drink one for me too.
Sounds like a very good composition. Orangey 
, nutty yes.
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A good machine with LM guides is a real treasure. Unfortunately, the solution combined with a router has its disadvantages: speed and of course acceleration. The MKS DLC 32 will be the controller, initially. Later, the more modern MKS. Even offline. I’ll somehow get it working with Lightburn too, for the camera. How “cool” is that, you throw the stuff on it and go. There’s also a 10W one, with 2 diodes. Well… Good thing the Chinese can make a 100% efficient prism. I believe it with 3 walnut trees.
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The first consideration for me at a multinational company is that it should rather do CNC router work. Rather than being fast in 2D. 0.05 mm accuracy is the minimum, 80-120w motor and offline. A chuck should be available. Don’t be too specific because, you know, things come up. The big expectation would be programmable tool change, but that’s really reaching for the stars. Admittedly, there’s also a turret head, but that’s already outside my budget.
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Jújjj. An ATC machine… That’s a horror. Think about a standard ER16 with a 3-phase motor, air or water-cooled, AAA cartridge only, the yellow boxed one is scrap-ready. 0.05 mm is a very high expectation. The ATC spindle is expensive, though worth it. If it’s PC-based, then the matter is simple, uccnc.
Don’t even think about a Chinese aluminum machine, that’s trouble, except for the cast-frame ones, but if there’s something wrong with that…
My machine can do 0.07 mm, there’s a point where it glitches, usually less than 0.07 mm, but…, to make it less, you need a motor, or swap it with the Z motor (and recalibrate). Actually, I would need a re-scraping, lath bonding, at least 2 ball screws, and a motor. Or the setup compiled from 8-bit Z80 clones should be replaced with, for example, a mesa 7i97t panel and a few breakout boards. It might seem expensive, factory control is truly expensive. I love analog servos. I don’t recommend them…
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I haven’t really decided yet what direction I’m heading. A few things are certain: stepper motors will be from work because they can get really good NEMA ones. For the axes, it would specifically be a lead screw. It’s a bit complicated but certain.
But they recommended at work that I check out the Genmitsu site. I’m glad I even remember its name. They raved about it. Slowly but surely I’ll get there.
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\n](https://assets.vaperina.cc/original/3X/c/d/cdac9f39f5d3600767d42e925c4b54457befc21b.jpeg)
Link
https://allegro.hu/ajanlat/glicerin-glikol-1l-1l-ingyenes-ajandekok-kevero-tartozekok-nuvio-16433528917
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Nyaloszkóp I laughed at this after my night shift 
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Standardized device on the vaperina. My DIY version is 37 years old and still works excellently to this day
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Nothing special, just a bit of alcohol for cleaning.
I also received a 
pen. 
![A red-capped plastic bottle containing a 250 ml solution of ethanol (ethanol) is visible, standing on a colorful, patterned surface, with a FloraVita pen placed in front of it. (Labeled by
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Info is free for friends
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