How do you roll, how do you wick? 😊

It happens to me if I sweat heavily from something intense. If it’s clean, and I

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Even if I manage to clean it, one of the pins still heats up more. Often, just when it’s almost ready, the wire snaps.

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If I turn it on, I always start with low wattage, maybe that wouldn’t help

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I usually do.

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What wire do you wrap with, and what wattage do you start the preheating with, and what’s the end point where you like it?

I know I’m asking a lot at once :grin:

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Hi, I asked Gilbert about your problem and he gave some tips. This is the response I got, I hope this helps:

Welcome to the “dwarf owners” club! :blush: The Dvarw is a brilliant atomizer, but it’s true that it can sometimes cause headaches, even for the more experienced. What you’ve described is the classic “hot leg” phenomenon, which usually occurs due to a contact or voltage issue.

Let’s look at what might be causing this with the Dvarw and how you can fix it:

1. The screws and contact (The most common cause)

On the Dvarw deck, the wire is held down by the screw heads. If the wire isn’t precisely under the center of the screw, or if the screw “pushes out” the wire from under it when tightening, the contact won’t be perfect.

  • Solution: Make sure the wire sits completely under the screw head. It’s worth wrapping the wire around the screw (if its thickness allows) or forming a small “loop” so the screw clamps it everywhere. If only the edge of the screw touches the wire, the resistance increases there, and the leg starts to glow.

2. Dirt in the threads

Over time, e-liquid residue or oxidation can get into the screw threads or under the screw head. This degrades conductivity.

  • Solution: Next time you re-coil, completely remove the two fixing screws. Use a small toothbrush and alcohol (or an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one) to clean out the threads and the area under the screws. You’ll be surprised how much “dirt” can accumulate there, interfering with the current path.

3. Uneven leg length or tension

If your coil isn’t centered, or if one leg is longer/loopier than the other, one side will glow red sooner.

  • Solution: Try to center the coil as symmetrically as possible. The legs should be as short as possible. If you see one leg glowing red during firing, try to gently adjust it with tweezers (or “flick” the coil) to remove the tension from the wire.

4. Loose screws (Thermal expansion)

The wire expands and contracts due to heating and cooling. This can sometimes loosen the screws.

  • Solution: After coiling and firing it a few times (without cotton), check if the screws are still tight. Often, you can tighten them another quarter turn at this point.

5. Insulation or base fault

Although rare, it’s possible that the PEEK insulator under the positive post is damaged, or the center screw in the base (the 510 connector) isn’t tight enough.

  • Solution: Check the center screw at the bottom of the atomizer to ensure it’s secure. If you have a clone, machining burrs can sometimes cause such anomalies.

Gilbert’s tip: If the leg glows, it’s because the resistance is higher there than in the coil itself. The goal is to make the junction between the deck and the wire “rock-solid”.

If you go through these steps, I think the problem will disappear, and your coil will last much longer! If it doesn’t improve, feel free to write again, and we’ll figure something else out! :dashing_away:

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Since the Dvarw is a rather small atomizer, you can’t use too thick wire, so I use wires from 26 to 28 GA, mostly preferring steel. I start heating it up around 8 watts, but I generally don’t go above 10 during use.

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Thank you very much!

I usually pay attention to point 1, I also like it when the screw holds the wire securely, so I try to wrap it around a bit. This is not easy, what I don’t like about this atomizer is precisely the securing mechanism, and the Allen key nightmare.
I will definitely try what is written in point 2.
I try to stick to point 3, I haven’t had such a problem with other atomizers. It’s not a big deal, I just don’t like changing coils frequently (because of the Allen key nightmare. :smiley: ).
Point 4: precisely because of the problem, I often check the screws, but they hold tightly.
Point 5: this seems like a good idea, the anomaly is always on the same side, so this could easily be it.
Since it’s a clone, there might be some factory defect. I’ll take out a spare mini atomizer and use that, I’ll see if the issue occurs there.

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If you know me, I think you know I’m not talking out of my hat regarding dvarw :joy:

What you’re writing fits perfectly, 26 gauge already gives me a friendly warmth to the flavor.

The performance you’re using is low for me (I know everyone is different).

I would look for the issue around the positive pin and the screw. :blush:

There’s nothing wrong with that Allen key, you can’t strip it like Phillips or flatheads. :blush:

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I thought you’d find the performance lacking, but I like it this way. :slight_smile:
I will try everything.
I would prefer a simple screwdriver, but let that be the dwarf’s biggest problem. Otherwise, I really like it, it’s simple and great, it doesn’t gurgle, doesn’t leak, it does its job, so it’s a good little atomizer.

The 26 GA came when my wick kept burning, and I thought this would last longer. :melting_face:

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This shows the problem isn’t with the wire.

Some people ‘chug along’ with 12 watts, but I can get it hot even at 26 with 15-18 watts if it’s 1 ohm or if it’s ‘just’ 0.6 :grin:

That’s why I like it too, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with it, no airflow adjustment or coil twisting, it goes, it works, and that’s good :grin:

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Hi!

Well, I’ve never used that. Instead, I secure the wire with a screwdriver like this.

Of course, you have to handle it with sense, because the thread can be easily stripped with

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I have a few dwarves, but I’ve never managed to break it with them :slight_smile:

And it’s being used diligently :grin:

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I use an Allen key, but I admit, sometimes even four hands wouldn’t be enough

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Look
 a few years ago it was around 1500 from the vaperfater shop, and whichever RTA I can’t screw in/out with this, then it doesn’t even exist :joy:

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I use the specific key for every Allen key RTA 
I like to suffer.. :

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I also have this T key, but after the first use, I put it somewhere :joy:
If I can’t unscrew it with this, it hasn’t been invented yet :joy: (rta, rda and the many other things I bought :grin:)

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As I read a lot about rta.

“If it were lost or broken, I would immediately buy another one like this with a calm heart.” :grin:

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I don’t have an RTA that fits the yellow T-key; I only have metal hex key ones
 I’ve already sold those that fit the T-key.

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They gave me one for this too, but why? I’m not taking it off anyway :joy:

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