It happens to me if I sweat heavily from something intense. If itâs clean, and I
Even if I manage to clean it, one of the pins still heats up more. Often, just when itâs almost ready, the wire snaps.
If I turn it on, I always start with low wattage, maybe that wouldnât help
I usually do.
What wire do you wrap with, and what wattage do you start the preheating with, and whatâs the end point where you like it?
I know Iâm asking a lot at once ![]()
Hi, I asked Gilbert about your problem and he gave some tips. This is the response I got, I hope this helps:
Welcome to the âdwarf ownersâ club!
The Dvarw is a brilliant atomizer, but itâs true that it can sometimes cause headaches, even for the more experienced. What youâve described is the classic âhot legâ phenomenon, which usually occurs due to a contact or voltage issue.
Letâs look at what might be causing this with the Dvarw and how you can fix it:
1. The screws and contact (The most common cause)
On the Dvarw deck, the wire is held down by the screw heads. If the wire isnât precisely under the center of the screw, or if the screw âpushes outâ the wire from under it when tightening, the contact wonât be perfect.
- Solution: Make sure the wire sits completely under the screw head. Itâs worth wrapping the wire around the screw (if its thickness allows) or forming a small âloopâ so the screw clamps it everywhere. If only the edge of the screw touches the wire, the resistance increases there, and the leg starts to glow.
2. Dirt in the threads
Over time, e-liquid residue or oxidation can get into the screw threads or under the screw head. This degrades conductivity.
- Solution: Next time you re-coil, completely remove the two fixing screws. Use a small toothbrush and alcohol (or an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one) to clean out the threads and the area under the screws. Youâll be surprised how much âdirtâ can accumulate there, interfering with the current path.
3. Uneven leg length or tension
If your coil isnât centered, or if one leg is longer/loopier than the other, one side will glow red sooner.
- Solution: Try to center the coil as symmetrically as possible. The legs should be as short as possible. If you see one leg glowing red during firing, try to gently adjust it with tweezers (or âflickâ the coil) to remove the tension from the wire.
4. Loose screws (Thermal expansion)
The wire expands and contracts due to heating and cooling. This can sometimes loosen the screws.
- Solution: After coiling and firing it a few times (without cotton), check if the screws are still tight. Often, you can tighten them another quarter turn at this point.
5. Insulation or base fault
Although rare, itâs possible that the PEEK insulator under the positive post is damaged, or the center screw in the base (the 510 connector) isnât tight enough.
- Solution: Check the center screw at the bottom of the atomizer to ensure itâs secure. If you have a clone, machining burrs can sometimes cause such anomalies.
Gilbertâs tip: If the leg glows, itâs because the resistance is higher there than in the coil itself. The goal is to make the junction between the deck and the wire ârock-solidâ.
If you go through these steps, I think the problem will disappear, and your coil will last much longer! If it doesnât improve, feel free to write again, and weâll figure something else out! ![]()
Since the Dvarw is a rather small atomizer, you canât use too thick wire, so I use wires from 26 to 28 GA, mostly preferring steel. I start heating it up around 8 watts, but I generally donât go above 10 during use.
Thank you very much!
I usually pay attention to point 1, I also like it when the screw holds the wire securely, so I try to wrap it around a bit. This is not easy, what I donât like about this atomizer is precisely the securing mechanism, and the Allen key nightmare.
I will definitely try what is written in point 2.
I try to stick to point 3, I havenât had such a problem with other atomizers. Itâs not a big deal, I just donât like changing coils frequently (because of the Allen key nightmare.
).
Point 4: precisely because of the problem, I often check the screws, but they hold tightly.
Point 5: this seems like a good idea, the anomaly is always on the same side, so this could easily be it.
Since itâs a clone, there might be some factory defect. Iâll take out a spare mini atomizer and use that, Iâll see if the issue occurs there.
If you know me, I think you know Iâm not talking out of my hat regarding dvarw ![]()
What youâre writing fits perfectly, 26 gauge already gives me a friendly warmth to the flavor.
The performance youâre using is low for me (I know everyone is different).
I would look for the issue around the positive pin and the screw. ![]()
Thereâs nothing wrong with that Allen key, you canât strip it like Phillips or flatheads. ![]()
I thought youâd find the performance lacking, but I like it this way. ![]()
I will try everything.
I would prefer a simple screwdriver, but let that be the dwarfâs biggest problem. Otherwise, I really like it, itâs simple and great, it doesnât gurgle, doesnât leak, it does its job, so itâs a good little atomizer.
The 26 GA came when my wick kept burning, and I thought this would last longer. ![]()
This shows the problem isnât with the wire.
Some people âchug alongâ with 12 watts, but I can get it hot even at 26 with 15-18 watts if itâs 1 ohm or if itâs âjustâ 0.6 ![]()
Thatâs why I like it too, I donât think thereâs anything wrong with it, no airflow adjustment or coil twisting, it goes, it works, and thatâs good ![]()
Hi!
Well, Iâve never used that. Instead, I secure the wire with a screwdriver like this.
Of course, you have to handle it with sense, because the thread can be easily stripped with
I have a few dwarves, but Iâve never managed to break it with them ![]()
And itâs being used diligently ![]()
I use an Allen key, but I admit, sometimes even four hands wouldnât be enough
Look⊠a few years ago it was around 1500 from the vaperfater shop, and whichever RTA I canât screw in/out with this, then it doesnât even exist ![]()
I use the specific key for every Allen key RTA âŠI like to suffer.. :
I also have this T key, but after the first use, I put it somewhere ![]()
If I canât unscrew it with this, it hasnât been invented yet
(rta, rda and the many other things I bought
)
As I read a lot about rta.
âIf it were lost or broken, I would immediately buy another one like this with a calm heart.â ![]()
I donât have an RTA that fits the yellow T-key; I only have metal hex key ones⊠Iâve already sold those that fit the T-key.



