How do you roll, how do you wick? 😊

Lounge
,
6203

Hi, I asked Gilbert about your problem and he gave some tips. This is the response I got, I hope this helps:

Welcome to the “dwarf owners” club! :blush: The Dvarw is a brilliant atomizer, but it’s true that it can sometimes cause headaches, even for the more experienced. What you’ve described is the classic “hot leg” phenomenon, which usually occurs due to a contact or voltage issue.

Let’s look at what might be causing this with the Dvarw and how you can fix it:

1. The screws and contact (The most common cause)

On the Dvarw deck, the wire is held down by the screw heads. If the wire isn’t precisely under the center of the screw, or if the screw “pushes out” the wire from under it when tightening, the contact won’t be perfect.

  • Solution: Make sure the wire sits completely under the screw head. It’s worth wrapping the wire around the screw (if its thickness allows) or forming a small “loop” so the screw clamps it everywhere. If only the edge of the screw touches the wire, the resistance increases there, and the leg starts to glow.

2. Dirt in the threads

Over time, e-liquid residue or oxidation can get into the screw threads or under the screw head. This degrades conductivity.

  • Solution: Next time you re-coil, completely remove the two fixing screws. Use a small toothbrush and alcohol (or an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one) to clean out the threads and the area under the screws. You’ll be surprised how much “dirt” can accumulate there, interfering with the current path.

3. Uneven leg length or tension

If your coil isn’t centered, or if one leg is longer/loopier than the other, one side will glow red sooner.

  • Solution: Try to center the coil as symmetrically as possible. The legs should be as short as possible. If you see one leg glowing red during firing, try to gently adjust it with tweezers (or “flick” the coil) to remove the tension from the wire.

4. Loose screws (Thermal expansion)

The wire expands and contracts due to heating and cooling. This can sometimes loosen the screws.

  • Solution: After coiling and firing it a few times (without cotton), check if the screws are still tight. Often, you can tighten them another quarter turn at this point.

5. Insulation or base fault

Although rare, it’s possible that the PEEK insulator under the positive post is damaged, or the center screw in the base (the 510 connector) isn’t tight enough.

  • Solution: Check the center screw at the bottom of the atomizer to ensure it’s secure. If you have a clone, machining burrs can sometimes cause such anomalies.

Gilbert’s tip: If the leg glows, it’s because the resistance is higher there than in the coil itself. The goal is to make the junction between the deck and the wire “rock-solid”.

If you go through these steps, I think the problem will disappear, and your coil will last much longer! If it doesn’t improve, feel free to write again, and we’ll figure something else out! :dashing_away:

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