Despite this, I wouldn’t think my fumbling is the tank’s fault. I attribute it to being a newbie, especially when it comes to RTAs.
It’s a fact, though, that I’ve never managed to build the Dead Rabbit 2 MTL tank (which is almost the cheapest, Chinese stuff) incorrectly
No pain, no gain…
Did the cotton completely fill the cotton slot? If you had to adjust it to cover the liquid openings, it might have been too little. I never thin it out or make it less dense, I also build 2.5mm coils and that amount of cotton nicely fills the slot (but it’s not too dense either).
How high is your coil positioned? By default, the top of the air intake and the coil legs are close (if you look from the side), I always raise it a bit. Not this one, but I’ve experienced it with other RTAs where it leaked because the juice wicked down from the coil, they were so close to each other that it didn’t cause a short circuit yet but they were almost touching (I forgot to check).
This is strange, as @Zoli76 also wrote, for me too it was like this only when I didn’t close the liquid control.
A picture would be good because we are just guessing blindly. Perhaps another idea, since you struggled with the disassembly, did one of the o-rings get damaged?
My third attempt has yielded pretty good results: the tank still gurgles occasionally, but at least it’s no longer spitting liquid in my face.
However, I realized that the screw on the 510 connector was not tightened from the factory, which caused both the tank and the mod to heat up excessively.
Don’t force the Clapton, especially if you take 2-3 big puffs. Plain Kanthal wire cools down faster, and multi-strand wires also have significant liquid absorption, which, along with the cotton, I think could be too much for MTL.